What an extreme treat to have such perfect weather for the entire memorial weekend! One of my most favorite parts of getting to live in Abiquiu on the Chama river is being lucky enough to to play in the beautiful but silty water. It’s been such an unusual May. Almost every day I think, “today is the day that I’ll go in for my first dip of the year,” but every day it’s just been too darn chilly or raining with thunder and lightning. Until this last Sunday! We had planned for my wife and I and four friends to kayak from one of their houses, a mile up river, to our shore, weather permitting. Sunday was the perfect day to do just that, so we all suited up, gathered our gear and a few of our more adventurous dogs and piled into the truck. We have done this float many times and are very comfortable with putting in and taking out, but my goodness, things were very different this time! The water was extremely high and moving very fast. We cautiously steered our vessels, nose first, into the rushing current, loaded gear and fur babies and jumped on hoping not to tip over right away. It was fabulous! This trip usually takes around 40 minutes, but this time, it took only 20. By the time we came to our grassy shore, we were all smiles and wanting to do it again. We’d opened up our guest trailer for the weekend, to a family that we had not yet met. When we bobbed up to our bank, they were all enjoying the river. The two young boys were fishing with their dad and mom was soaking up the sun on a camp chair. The boys were shyly in awe of our arrival and mom looked very excited about the possibility of having this adventure herself. They helped us out of the water, asking how our trip went, to which we all responded with exuberant “it was great and we’re going again!” I couldn’t resist the sparkle in their eyes of the obvious desire to join us, so said, “we have another kayak big enough for three of you if you’d like to jump in…” A little more gear gathering and life vests for the boys, and off we went for round two. Again, it was a wonderful time made further enjoyable by getting to see mom and the boys have such a good time. Being on the water always makes me hungry. Fortunately, my wife had thought ahead and remembered to order pizza for lunch, hoping to time it right for the post-kayak hangries. This can be a tricky effort when ordering from our local pizza joint. Mamacita’s Pizza is a valued business in our small community being one of the few options in the valley. I’m pretty sure that this is a one person show and can imagine it’s hard to keep up with the demand on busy weekends. That said, I’m often baffled by some of the experiences that we have had there. We tried to follow the previously instructed rules by calling the day before to confirm that they were open and ask if we should preorder now, call in early the day of, or just order when we were ready to eat. We were told an emphatic “it’s memorial weekend, definitely preorder at noon because I will run out!” So, my wife set an alarm and called on the dot, at noon the next day but was chastised anyway for trying to pre order for later that afternoon on such a busy day, and that if she didn’t order right now, pay and come to get it, she’d be *#$@ outta luck! This is what I’m referring to by “tricky”. So the wife obediently ordered, picked it up and stowed it in our oven on the warm setting to dig into several hours later. The pizza was good. It’s always good. A nice, I’m guessing, sourdough crust, layered with a balanced savory sauce and a melty mozzarella. We ordered two pies, the Veggie Supreme and the other extra pepperoni, green chile and red onion. The green chile was sparse, but perfectly spicy and any more would likely have caused a fire on my tongue. The pepperoni, of which I would consider to be a “regular” amount and red onion balanced and enhanced the spicy chile. The veggie pizza was excellent and had plenty of green peppers, onions, tomatoes, olives and mushrooms embedded in the saucy cheesy pie. As always, we over ordered and we’re very satisfied and happy laying on our grassy lawn with plenty of slices left over for future lunches. The portions from Mamacitas are generous, but not on the cheap side. For two jumbos, the total was about $62. On the menu I see more than pizza, including wings, subs, salads and “garlic stix.” Next time I will try to branch out a bit and let you all know how it goes. I also look forward to future river adventures this summer and to enjoying the likely new friendship we will have with this lovely family that we got to share our weekend with.
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~Brian Bondy
Humankind definitely has a penchant for forcing the world around us to change for our “benefit”. Sometimes it’s trying to bend the will of others to believe something different, like religion, science, or justice. It may also be to change the world around us to be more accommodating, building dams, clearing forests, plowing fields. These changes can cause conflict, alleviate hunger, alter nature. It’s quite the mixed bag. Arguably, we wouldn’t be where we are without fossil fuels. It would be easy to see that as a positive and a negative. Sometimes maybe, we just don’t know when it’s time to quit. Nobody likes change, but really, nobody likes change unless it’s easy. I wrote about how humans changed wild animals into domesticated cats and dogs. The same goes true for cattle, pigs, and chickens. This is the food we eat because this is the food that is served to us in grocery stores. When I was a kid, I got served squirrel and didn’t think anything of it. Today that seems odd, but I have a Better Homes & Garden cookbook from the 60’s that shows how to skin and prep a squirrel and a rabbit. I was looking up ‘how humans have modified their food’ How humanity has changed the food it eats - BBC Future and the results were fascinating. It also came up with articles on how humans have changed because of the food they eat. The first thing that caught my eye was how, since humans have cooked their food thus making it easier to chew, this evolved our faces to become smaller and our jaws less powerful. Humans’ civilization begins with farming. Food supplies being localized meant that they did not have to continuously wander in search of something to eat. Groups could form to help with protection, education, food production, etc. And the food could be selectively bred to be more productive, larger, sweeter, whatever the needs. Read some on that HERE. How Humans Have Changed Fruit (businessinsider.com) Forests were cleared, dams were built, pesticides were sprayed, wolves were killed. Unintended consequences happened. Today, genetic modification is done to help enhance plant growth. In some cases, generous scientists have created rice that will survive longer periods under water. They donated this genetic modification to the world, which helped some starving nations to grow rice where their regular crops failed due to the new, unusual weather patterns occurring today. Monsanto, of course, was famous for patenting their seed products, then selling them everywhere. They could then sue farmers that were not buying their product, but the farmer’s crops were contaminated with Monsanto corn from neighboring crops. That was likely a conspiracy theory, a story you can read about HERE. There is genetic engineering going on to help alleviate hunger, produce pest resistant food, and even to produce milk and meat in a lab, not from animals. It’s happening right now. The promise of solving food shortages, and maybe even vegetarian compatible meat, vegan compatible milk, that has some seriously great promise. And, like AI, artificial intelligence, it has some seriously scary possibilities. Cats & Dogs, Cows & Pigs, Wheat and Soy, they are all genetically modified, some by selective breeding, some in a lab. Where do you draw the line? This year's El Rito studio tour was different from the last few. I’m not sure, but it felt like there were a lot less mapped out stops and a lot more conglomerative efforts. Which was disappointing to me because, if I am being completely honest, I mostly go to these events to sate my intense passion for real estate. I love it all. Architecture, landscape design, people’s personal and ever eclectic choices in furnishing and art…wait, art, that’s what it’s all about! Back to topic here. So…. There was a lot of amazing art. I particularly was drawn to the fiber arts this year. So many soft, woven lengths of home spun or uniquely brought together fibers. I’m amazed by the vision and the patience one must have to create these wonders.
I was happy to finally see behind the sleepy curtain of Northern New Mexico College. They were slated to have 30 plus artists, live music and food available to tour goers. We arrived at noon and it was hopping with action and people and cars and music. We were hungry and glad that there was food at this stop. But, there wasn’t any food left. They had run out, at noon, on day one. Oops. Hangrily, my wife and I made the rounds to ogle every single table laden with every expression of art out there. We left feeling satisfied, art wise, hungry and determined to finish the tour anyway. We didn’t quite make it to each and every stop but I am very glad to have stopped at number 9, David McClister’s house, which used to be a gas station and was very intriguing, as was David and his work. If you don’t already know, he’s a photographer whose interest seems to be famous musicians. He’s had sessions with Taylor Swift, Dolly Parton, Emmy Lou, Willie Nelson and countless others. Assuming that he gets to choose his subjects, it’s clear that we have similar musical taste. We ended our tour with the El Rito library, hoping for food. There were several, long tables filled with sweets and a couple of tables boasting hot dogs, but no actual hot dogs. I did grab a bowl of red chile con carne and was very thankful for the generous library folk for providing all the free sweet fare, of which my wife and I grabbed some to go. Still ravenous, and with much more of the day ahead of us than we had planned for, we decided that we’d make the long trip to Santa Fe because we all sometimes need to. This is our thirteenth article on the local run around in Abiquiu and this one is taking us to Santa Fe. If we are all honest, we all need to go there time and again. Thus, El Rito, Cheato. Having lived in and around Santa Fe for thirty plus years, I know the food scene there well. Out of all the choices in front of us, we chose, as we often did when we lived within walking distance of it, The Pantry Restaurant on Cerrillos. This place never never lets me down. It is always perfectly delicious. So much so, that one winter, many years ago, I gained 20 pounds solely due to The Pantry and my lack of self control. My kryptonite is the “Buenos Días”. There was a time when we didn’t even need to tell the waiter our order. They sat us without menus and placed our order right away. Here it is: “Buenos Días, crispy potatoes, over medium, green, no tortilla, sub English muffin, crispy, a four slice side of bacon, crispy and a side of red. Thank you, also, water please.” This heaping plate of marvel is started with a generous layer of flavorful sliced potatoes, then slathered with shredded cheese and chile, topped with your egg of choice then salamandered to a melty excellence. We enrich this beauty with the aforementioned crispy bacon crumbled atop and an English muffin to help with the efficient scooping into our mouths. I have strayed from this oft usual order and have been very happy with every item I have chosen, but always have, and likely always will, fall back on the Buenos Días, which they serve all day, making it an easy go-to any time. To make access easier to scrumptious comfort food, The Pantry now has two other locations in Santa Fe, one at the Community College and one downtown. Though, in my experience, the OG Pantry on Cerrillos is still the best. Now, full beyond comfort, looking forward to the upcoming Abiquiu studio tour, all of our Santa Fe errands done, we made the pleasant hour drive back home to our beautiful Abiquiu valley and bed. Finally the weather is perfect, goals have been met, my work is done and the weekend is here!
Great timing because this Saturday is also the annual Bondy yard sale. We love this sale. The prices are fair, the goods are plentiful and very well displayed. You can count on having many categories to shop for. You can also count on this field trip taking about three times longer than you planned for, as, likely, you will run into a lot of people that you know. Catch-up chats and quick hugs with a “gotta get going to buy things I probably don’t need, see you later”! This year was the best year yet. I always follow my same routine by starting front left and working my way clockwise until I reach the Bondys’ front porch that’s usually so crowded with used stuff and people sifting through it, that you have to squeeze in with a lot of “excuse me, I’m sorry”. I pretend to be looking at all the laid out items on tall tables, but really I’m casually strolling to the back where there are always lots of homemade treats that I hope are for the taking. Brian Bondy could always fall back on a second career of candy making with that perfect toffee he makes fresh every year. It’s sweet, but not too sweet with the exact right crunch and chewiness. The nuts compliment it perfectly and one piece is never enough! Yum! But wait, this year I see that there is a whole new section of booths behind the porch with clothes and fun art temptations. Oh dear, this is gonna be hard to resist. Thankfully, I came with my wife and two dear friends and mostly succeeded in focusing my shopping urges on clothes and essential items for them. My wife tends to get grabby at these events and, later, I discovered that she had already made several trips to our car with arms full of very important things by the time we were saying our goodbyes to drive the short distance further down the road to the second location of the sale. I’m glad that we brought our small car this year, because this next leg of the sale had some temptations that were challenging my “less is more” philosophy. I will confess that it is fully my responsibility that we came home with a giant meditation bowl for our, yet to be finished yoga/ meditation space. Ah well, it’s good to treat oneself and to splurge every now and then. We decided to carry on splurging the next day to treat ourselves to a Mother’s Day breakfast at The Artesian Restaurant in Ojo Caliente. We love coming to this restaurant, it’s so peaceful and beautiful. The gardens were literally sparkling and shining, probably due to the 1.11” of rain torrent that we had received the night before. What a gorgeous day! The bustling dining room was not as crowded as we feared it may be considering the holiday and we were sat quickly at one of the many pleasant tables lining the walls. The menu has a nice variety of delicious sounding items to choose from. We were starving, so, started with the avocado toast as an appetizer. I ordered an omelet, choosing my own ingredients. It comes with cubed potatoes and toast. I chose house cured bacon, goat cheese and spinach. Asked for my potatoes crispy, always, and rye for my toast. My wife went for the French toast. The avocado toast was all that it boasted to be except for a pet peeve my wife and I share, that avocado should be avocado. Not guacamole! It’s no different than assuming tomato on your BLT, but getting salsa. Come on people, know the difference! Besides that, the sourdough toast was a perfect vessel for the piled high guacamole, sautéed spinach and over medium egg drizzled with a nice zesty sesame chili oil and surrounded by flavorful cherry tomatoes. My omelet was very sizable and topped with a lot of bacon, spinach and goat cheese. At first, I was worried that that was their style, to have the ingredients on the outside of the omelet, but quickly comforted to find the fold was stuffed with much more bacon and goat cheese and spinach. Dare I say too much??! The potatoes were good but nothing spectacular and the toast was bland and room temp. I do appreciate a restaurant that still serves cute, soft butter balls in a ramekin, a rare sight since COVID and was happy to receive this and small sides of ramekin-ed ketchup, syrup and a delicious homemade strawberry jam that I wish they sold jarred and to go. My wife’s French Toast was some of the best I’ve ever had. Texas toast soaked in a delicate egg batter and fried to a slightly crunchy golden brown, dusted with powdered sugar and surrounded by a generous portion of sliced strawberries, a velvety maple syrup and a mountain of whipped cream. We ate the French toast last thankfully and were not tempted, for a change, to order dessert. All this, a cup of decaf and a lot left over, came to $55. It was a truly lovely weekend. As I sit writing this article on a comfortable chair on my new screened in porch on the river, listening to the beautiful song of the Western Tanagers, I am so very thankful to be lucky enough to live in such a beautiful valley surrounded by kind and generous folk. Now to face all the new tasks on my to-do list, I am rejuvenated and ready to go. I think that we might make this Bondy-ing with Mother’s Day breakfast an annual tradition! ~Jessica Rath After an extraordinary long winter which started with freezing temperatures in the first days of November and lasted all the way through April, spring has finally arrived. And, even faster than in other years, spring is almost gone! Just in time for summer, for swimming and kayaking, Abiquiú Lake has nicely filled up with plenty of water. Something that most of us have sorely missed for the last few seasons. Before I moved to New Mexico in 2000, I lived in Berkeley/California. When I told people of my plans, the common reaction was: What?! You’re moving to the desert?! Well, I had visited friends who lived in Santa Fe, and they had taken me to Taos and other gorgeous places in the north, so I knew that I wasn't going to live in a dry, sand-blown desert. But I certainly didn’t expect that I’d end up close to a splendid lake. It didn’t bother me that it is an artificial lake, with a dam to store the Rio Chama water. It was just perfect for swimming, other people were kayaking, sometimes there was even a sailboat. The speed boats – well, one just had to ignore them. But for the last few years, the water level steadily sank until it was too low for the boat ramps. Swimming became dangerous because of blue-green algae. What was going on? I looked at the history of the lake to find out more. The work on Abiquiu Dam started in 1958. It was created to control the amount of water which would flow from the Rio Chama into the Rio Grande in Espanola. When it was finished, it was considered to be the fourth-largest earth filled dam in the world: 325 (now 340, raised 15 feet in the 80s) feet high, 1,450 (1800 now) feet across from one edge of the canyon to the other, and 2,770 feet from the upstream to the downstream edge. A mile-long conveyor belt had to be installed to bring fill dirt from the borrow areas to near the dam, from where it was transported via dump trucks to wherever it was needed. The dam was completed in 1962, but – surprise! – there wasn’t a lake at all! The dam was used strictly as a flood barrier. Apparently, in the 1970s there were conflicting attitudes about the development of a recreational lake which would flood the area on the north side of the dam. Much of the land was private, and there was concern that the dam wouldn’t be strong enough to hold so much water. On the other hand, the Espanola Chamber of Commerce petitioned for the construction of recreational facilities because of the obvious benefits for local businesses. I don’t know how it happened, but I’m glad they won! With the higher water levels, this summer looks promising as far as swimming and other water activities are concerned. But what about the coming years? Will the water stay high? I wanted to find out and made an appointment with John Mueller, Operations Manager at the Abiquiu Dam (which is part of the U.S.Army Corps of Engineers), who kindly agreed to answer my questions. First of all, I wanted to know why the water was so low for the last two years – was it just the drought or were there other reasons? John explained that it was usage, primarily. The purpose of the reservoir was to control flooding from the dam down to Espanola, where the Chama meets the Rio Grande. Initially, there wasn’t much water stored – not enough for swimming etc., it was just a puddle at the bottom. In the spring there was more water, but it was slowed down for flood control, the water was released at a controlled rate. But, in the mid-70s the San Juan Diversion Project changed things. (He shows me on the map). The headwater of the native Chama River is southeast of Pagosa Springs, it flows along the Colorado border, and then into Rio Grande. The Bureau of Reclamation Tunnel is 26 miles long, it collects water from the headwaters of the San Juan River, flows through a tunnel underneath the Continental Divide, and comes out east. It is placed in Heron Reservoir where it connects with the native Chama River. The water is purchased by contractors, municipalities, and water authorities including the City of Albuquerque. They can store it in Heron Lake, and they can store it in El Vado Lake including native (natural Chama, not San Juan-Chama) water. They use it for irrigation and drinking, mainly. In the 70s the water was stored year round for the contractors. They can ask for it whenever they want or need it. “We can’t STORE native water like El Vado does. We can only hold it, slow it down, and eventually release it. The only water that is stored is the San Juan-Chama water, for these contractors, to be sent down when they request it. In the 80s and 90s and early 2000s they were not calling for it, but then when they did ask for it, our water level kept dropping. This is partly related to the drought, and also, Albuquerque is growing and needs more water. For the last 10 years the water level has been reduced.” There is currently legislation and a process that is being developed for Abiquiu Lake to have the ability to store native water in addition to San Juan Chama imported water up to an elevation of 6230 feet, although it is uncertain when this may be implemented. I asked about the blue-green algae. It’s actually NOT an algae John corrected, but a bacteria. It grows in warm, stagnant water with high nutrients such as nitrates, sulfates, etc. from agricultural run-off. Less water, higher temperatures, more nutrients: the perfect growing conditions for algae. “Last year we had more water because the El Vado Dam is being worked on. To do the maintenance, they had to drain their reservoir and we took that water. Also, the snow melt is a contributing factor for the high levels. We have to hold off releasing the water like we normally would at this time of the year, because there are other tributaries like the Ojo River. We have to reduce our release because at the Chamita Gate down there, at the Chevron Station where the Ojo comes in, there would be too much water otherwise. We’re only releasing about half of what comes in. But we’re going to release that water eventually, for agricultural purposes etc.” And good news for this summer: “On July 1st whatever we’ll have over will be locked into storage until the end of the season, that’s going to help us keep the water up here. Because of El Vado and the snowpack we have a higher storage through November. Potentially also next year, depending on when they complete the maintenance at El Vado. Right now, it’s a foot and ½ going up every day. We’re at the level of 2013 I think. We're probably gonna come up another 6 feet. However, it will not last. This year and next year, we’ll have a lot of water! Definitely this year, and it’s looking pretty good for next year.” I thanked John for his time and the interesting information and went to the overlook and then to the main boat ramp to take some pictures. There were already some picnickers, some kayakers, and one speed boat. It’s still too cold for swimming, but we can look forward to a glorious summer!
Read More Taos News 4/28/1960 Albuquerque Journal 7/22/61 If you have not yet made the beautiful drive to the El Rito Public Library, you should. This is the prettiest library I’ve ever seen, inside and out and is surrounded by lush trees and open, grassy fields. The building is a humble adobe that has been added onto through the years, starting in 1930 as a one room middle school then morphing into a library in 1989. Many kind and generous folks have and continue to help create this community space that has so many interesting layers that I am not even scratching the surface of this little gem. I drive the peaceful, mellow road, up 554 to 215 almost any time that I get word of something special going on there. My wife and I have gotten all dolled up to give out candy to the local kids on Halloween, joining the awesome lowriders that show up for the annual “trunk or treat'' in the gravel parking lot. For one of the Friday night movie and potluck events, we cooked up a big batch of pesto filled ravioli in a cream sauce to contribute to the other delicious food people brought, and they even had popcorn! Sometimes I go just to peruse the various, meandering rooms furnished with comfortable chairs and workstations with computers. And, if you ask nicely and have 10 cents, you can use the printers too. In one room, the walls are barely visible through the gorgeous, hand tailored quilts created by the El Rito Quilting Guild. These ladies can sew! The designs and colors are so beautiful and comforting, it can hypnotize you into staying for hours without even noticing time passing. The books are tidily organized and easy to navigate. There are DVD’s and audio books galore. There are so many wonderful activities and events going on here. We look forward to donating something tempting to this year's annual silent auction to do our part in supporting this magical asset that heightens so many lives, young and old. Seeing as you are already in El Rito, try to carve out time to dine at El Farolito. This is a tiny, charmingly ramshackle adobe building nestled in the heart of the other ramshackle buildings that create the business part of El Rito. The cafe opened somewhere around the 1960’s, (it’s a hard fact to find), and was infused with new energy in 1975, when the original owner was joined by her brother and his wife, Dennis and Carmen Trujillo. They added a green chile sauce that has won awards and gotten the attention of many huge foodie magazines and individuals.
When we visited last, Marisol, Dennis and Carmen’s daughter seemed to be running the place along with a very outgoing and pleasant man literally running from the kitchen to the dining room and back, delivering food, to try to keep up with the busy hum of hungry patrons. Walking into the cafe takes a moment to absorb the uncommon vibe. It’s small, I mean small. You will find four mismatched, somewhat communal tables, surrounded by empty cardboard boxes and full cardboard boxes, overflowing with all the prepared or cooked or unseasoned goods that are needed to create the items on the menu. While waiting for our food, a trio of women placed their order at the counter and held up 2 lemons to be added to the bill that she’d helped herself to from one of the glass, stand up refrigerators crammed against the wall. I commented to my wife that Marisol handled that very well, assuming that the lemons weren’t for sale, but that she politely sold them anyway. Wrong! After a bit, when my eyes and brain were able to sift through the unusual clutter surrounding us, I focused on an old white board, with a listing of the refrigerators contents for sale. Aha, those lemons were for sale, as well as avocados, milk, eggs, soda, etc. I’m going to guess that almost any ingredient needed to cook with, is or could be bought from the cold case. Earlier, I held the door open for a woman whose arms were full of her takeout order and noticed a 32 oz container of chili powder tucked under her arm. I now understand that she had just bought it from them. As a former restaurant owner, I admire their generosity in allowing this kind service to the public as it gets pretty hard to plan for supplying a consistent menu when you’re not sure what ingredients you’ll have left at the end of the day. I think the family is still operating under the rules demanded by COVID, as all the cutlery and serving vessels are styrofoam and plastic and the menu is a folded 8x11 piece of paper. Looking back at photos taken by previous patrons and reviewers, I see metal forks, ceramic plates and laminated menus. In light of the health of our planet, I wish they would bring them back, though it’s nearly impossible to imagine fitting a dish washing station into the building. Now, for the food. After confirming that the tortilla chips were house made and the guac too, we ordered them to start. They were delicious. Still slightly warm, perfectly crisp and salty, but not at all oily. The guac was uniquely creamy and had a pleasant hint of garlic leaving us wishing we had more of it. We ordered the Farolito Combo plate, which consisted of a chili relleno, a chicken filled enchilada and a ground beef stuffed hard shell taco. The relleno was very good. A perfectly mildly spiced poblano filled with a flavorful white cheese, smothered in green chile and topped with shredded cheese. The chicken enchilada was a little dry, but flavorful as well. The taco was a generous portion of house seasoned ground beef a little heavy on the cumin and salt. The nicely flavored and plump pintos were yummy. We also ordered the tostada, opting for chicken. The large crunchy blue corn tortilla topped with a lot of shredded chicken, iceberg lettuce, a little pico and some grated cheddar made this a crisp tasty snack that I would definitely order again. Because we tend to stuff our faces on these ventures, and the fact that my wife’s love language is, well, food, almost any food, we also ordered a side of onion rings. Sadly, they were not fantastic, likely just delivered from the food supplier and straight from a frozen bag into hot oil. I’d skip the rings and go for the crinkle cut fries that wafted by our table to almost every person dining in. Don’t mistake this place as having only (New) Mexican fare, there are many other items on the menu that we hope to sample on another day including burgers, quesadillas, steak picado, grilled cheese and cold sandwiches too. Oh right! Again, because of the face stuffing/love language mentioned above, we also ordered a slice of the homemade apple pie, a la mode. Jeez, we can eat! It was very good but could have been much better if it were toasted or warmed in an oven instead of a microwave. Next time, I’ll ask for it at room temp. The flavors were a sweet heaven and, I think, not nuked, the crust would have rivaled my wife’s. There are no alcoholic beverages but a bevy of fun fizzy drinks and coffee are aplenty. The prices here are pre-pandemic and the entire meal with plenty of leftovers was just over $40 with tip and tax. All in all, I think it’s worth “checking out.”
Reies Lopez Tijerina – even today opinions are divided. Was he a communist agitator or a selfless proponent of the poor and underprivileged? Let’s start at the beginning and explore.
Tierra Amarilla, just a few miles north of Abiquiú on Hwy 84, is a sleepy little town. It almost looks like a ghost town with a number of closed business buildings and abandoned houses. It is somewhat surprising that it has been the Rio Arriba county seat since 1880 when the town got its current name (“Yellow Earth”; before that, it was called “Las Nutrias”). When the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad constructed lines that connected Chama to their vast network, the area around T.A. must have experienced a cultural and economic expansion that just as quickly ended when the railroads stopped running.
The current courthouse was built in 1917. I have visited it a few times; once because I was called for jury duty, another time to attend a meeting of the County Commissioners; always totally uneventful trips. I was therefore utterly perplexed when I learned that there had been a raid on the courthouse in 1967, the National Guard was called in, and one person got shot!
About 20 members of a group which was founded in 1963 by Reies Tijerina and which called itself La Alianza Federal de Mercedes (Federal Alliance of Land Grants) assembled at the courthouse on June 5, 1967, in order to place the district attorney Alfonso G. Sanchez under citizen’s arrest. They also wanted to free a few members of the group who had been arrested a day or two earlier. The Alianza had planned a meeting in Coyote, and Sanchez used police force to break up the gathering, and several members were taken into custody. However, the county judge had already freed the imprisoned people, and Sanchez wasn’t in T.A. at all but in Santa Fe mobilizing police forces. When they couldn’t find Sanchez, the Alianza group took a sheriff and a reporter hostage; they also shot and wounded a prison guard and a police officer. The event caused national attention; Governor David Cargo called in the National Guard which descended with tanks and helicopters, state police, and local sheriffs for what probably was the biggest manhunt in New Mexico history. The Alianza members and their leader, Reies Tijerina, fled to the near-by mountains where sympathetic ranchers protected them. Only after Tijerina’s wife (who was pregnant) had been arrested, did they surrender to authorities in Albuquerque.
Photograph of Reies Tijerina around the time of the ""Courthouse Raid"" incident in Tierra Amarilla, NM, in June of 1967. Tijerina was a leader in the fight to restore New Mexican land grants to the descendants of their Mexican American and Spanish owners. Photo by Peter Nabokov, used with permission.
By now, you’re probably curious what this was all about: WHAT did the Alianza want to accomplish? WHY was the district attorney so set to arrest its members?
The name of the group gives a clue: it was all about land grants. An issue that even today can cause heated debates. It goes back to the time when the land here was a colony of Spain. The governors who were accountable to the King of Spain granted the land to people here. A person would petition with the governor or his representative; when the petition was granted, the person would receive a document which would guarantee that the person could occupy and use the land. Actually, that was a condition: the person HAD to occupy and use the land. Something like developers was not allowed. Communities could apply for land grants as well, in order to establish settlements. When Mexico gained independence from Spain, they continued with the customary land grant system. An essential part of this system was the fact that the people didn’t really OWN the land – it was theirs to use and to live on, but if somebody would find gold or some other valuable substance, this would belong to the King. (I learned this from a video produced by New Mexico State Historian Rob Martínez; if you want to learn more, here is the link).
Things changed when New Mexico became part of the United States at the end of the Mexican-American War in 1848. Although the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo confirmed the legitimacy of land grants under Mexican law, in practice many people lost their rights. Americans had a different understanding of land ownership, and communally held ownership was a foreign concept – Ejidos (Community-owned land) were not recognized under U.S. law and fell into private hands. Much of it became National Forest or was assigned to the Bureau of Land Management. People didn’t have their original copies any more, and lost their land. They were not prepared to deal with a complicated legal system and especially with unscrupulous speculators. The Santa Fe Ring, a powerful group of corrupt lawyers, businessmen, and politicians, swindled land grant holders into selling their land. One of them, Thomas B. Catron who became a U.S. Senator, managed to acquire 3,000,000 acres of land. Compared to these individuals who often hired assassins to eliminate their opponents, Reies Tijerina looks almost like a choir boy.
Well, not really. Reies Tijeria was no angel, he wasn’t perfect. Born in 1926 in Fall City, Texas, he experienced from a young age the discriminating treatment of poor, migrant families with Hispanic/Mexican origin. After he became an ordained pentecostal minister, he founded a little community of some 20 families in the southern Arizona desert, The Valley of Peace, in 1955. He moved with his family and a few of his followers to New Mexico in 1957. That’s where he learned about the land grants and the injustice he perceived when he learned about the many families who had been dispossessed of their lands. This became his new passion: to bring justice to people who had lost their land, and to highlight the unequal working conditions that so many Native Americans and Hispanios had to endure. This led to conflicts with lawmakers and the police who branded him as a communist agitator, and eventually to the Tierra Amarilla Courthouse raid. After being convicted of charges related to the raid in 1970, the federal government sent Tijerina to a prison for the mentally deranged where he was forced to take psychotropic drugs. When he was paroled two years later, he was something of a broken man. He died in 2015 in El Paso, Texas.
Here is a corrido about these events performed by Roberto Martínez and his group Los Reyes de Albuquerque who was a friend of Tijerina. It was played on all the local radio stations and was featured in the Smithsonian touring exhibition Corridos sin Fronteras / Ballads Without Borders.
A quick mention has to be made of Tijerina’s involvement in the larger Civil Rights Movement: in March 1968, he was elected to be the leader of the Chicano contingent of the Southern Christian Leadership Conference and worked with Dr. Martin Luther King to organize the Poor People’s March on Washington. After Dr. King’s assassination in April, Tijerina continued his work under the leadership of Ralph Abernathy.
When you decide whether Tijerina was a good guy or a bad guy, keep in mind that to stand up for minorities’ rights in the late Sixties meant to put one’s life in jeopardy. Justice seemed to be reserved for the privileged, and the punishment for acts of violence were hugely disproportionate, depending on who was the perpetrator. Maybe Tijerina was sort of in the middle, like most of us.
Poor Peoples’ March – conference at Hawthorne School in Washington, D.C., June 1968. Left to right: Rev. Andrew Young, Reies Tijerina, Rev. Ralph Abernathy, Rodolpho “Corky” Gonzales, Roque Garcia. From: Tijerina and the Land Grants: Mexican Americans in Struggle for Their Heritage, by Patricia Bell Blawis. Open Source.
I wrote about the origin of cats last week, so how about dogs? Well, to me, dogs seem way more varied than cats, both in size and disposition. I’ve seen dogs that barely look like dogs anymore they’ve been bred so much. Again, there’s a discussion in there I’m not willing to touch, at least not today.
We have 3 dogs. I love having dogs and wouldn’t want to live without them. They are all mutts, and strays. They all 3 showed up and adopted us, on different occasions of course. They all 3 have very different personalities, and ways to be annoying. Generally, I think of dogs coming from wolves, originally. Healers were bred from the Australian Dingo, BTW. Just a fun fact. The New York Times had an article describing domesticated dog fossils found in Europe from over 15,000 years ago. There is also speculation that dogs were getting domesticated at roughly the same time, in Asia, and in Europe and the Middle East. There may be DNA evidence supporting that theory. For fairly obvious reasons, at least if you have a dog or are a dog fan, they can be quite useful. They can be trained quite readily, some say, I wouldn’t know, and they can then be helpful in hunting, fighting, and protection. That all makes sense for early mankind. I think they make a fairly good friend and companion, if not a bit needy sometimes. It is speculated that all dogs descend from the Gray Wolf, though likely from two time periods. It is also suggested that it would take 130,000 years for the wolf to be bred into the modern dog, which implies that wolves were cohabitating or at least inter mingling with humans well before they were being directly selectively bred. The genetics of dogs is far less mixed up than you might imagine though. Particularly with Pure Bred species. A great article to look at, if you are interested, is from the PBS, which you can find by clicking here. We finally began to build our long desired screened-in gazebo on the riverbank. We started this project on Wednesday, planning completion on Saturday. Everything was going smoothly and as scheduled. We called ahead to reserve an orbital floor sander for early Friday morning, planning on finishing laying the deck boards and getting the sanding done all in one day.
Being the early bird in our family, my wife set an alarm for 5:30AM, hopped out of bed and gently whispered to ask me if I wouldn’t mind letting the goats out in a bit, as it was still dark and too early to release the beasts safely. I mumbled a grudging “yes” and squeezed in another hour of sleep. When I climbed the ladder down to the living room I was surprised to find her sitting by a roaring fire ablaze in our woodstove. I asked “Why are you still here?” to which she replied, “Look outside.” Holy moly, it was snowing! Real snow! Fat sticking flakes in a dark intimidating sky. Yikes, what’s happening here!? It's almost May and I’m sunburned from yesterday's framework! Realizing it was time for plan B, we called to cancel the rental and decided to go out to eat instead, maybe even catch a movie. We've been wanting to try breakfast at the Artesian Restaurant at Ojo Caliente hot springs. After a quick check online to make sure it was open, we hopped in the car and off we went. We were so entranced with all of the new snow on the Sangre de Cristos that we missed the turn onto Highway 285 by several miles. Oops! We decided to keep going into Espanola to try breakfast, instead, at La Fonda Del Sol at the Delta Inn. This is a fairly new restaurant boasting a no borders approach to Mexican cuisine. We parked in the large, dirt lot and could have used an old school map to find the entrance. Once inside, we found warm, Spanish colonial decor with a soft Saltillo floor and lots of rich, brown wood accents on the walls and above. Tall ceilings and two huge indoor trees make this a special place to dine. There’s a small table piled with fun tchotchkes from Mexico that are also for sale. Our server, Karina, ended up being the sister of Juan, who owns the place and opened only three years ago. Juan boasts being the bringer of quesabirrias to the area, a very unique and delicious dish consisting of a corn tortilla soaked in red chile sauce overnight, then filled with broth cooked beef birria, and grilled to a soft, but crispy perfection. We ordered two of these to start and were not disappointed. They were served with a small cup of consome, aka broth, and two medium spiced, creamy salsas. The habanero green was the most complimentary to this build of beefy cheesy perfection. Intrigued by the Chiles en Nogada and with Karina’s urging, we went out on a limb and ordered that as well. Now, these were a surprise. I still don’t know if I loved it, or if I will never order it again, unless maybe it’s Christmas, and I happen to find myself here on December 25. It was a chile relleno, one of my favorite foods on the planet, but was almost unrecognizable as one. The menu calls it a Pre Hispanic recipe. It’s a large, perfectly tender but al dente Poblano chile stuffed with ground beef slow cooked in apples and smothered in a pecan cream cheese sauce and topped with pomegranate seeds and fresh parsley. It was served with nicely seasoned perfectly tender Spanish rice, a small Mexican style green salad and corn tortillas. I was trepidatious as I took my first bite. My taste buds were overwhelmed by the tart popping pomegranate kernels, smoothly accompanied by the savory cream sauce. The apple soaked beef and the slightly spicy chile were a strange combination at first, but once my brain caught up to my mouth, we made peace with this odd combo and ended up liking it quite a bit! Upon Karina’s suggestion, we also ordered two gorditas of her choosing and a tripe taco, street style. The gorditas come with your choice (in this case, Karina’s choice) of flour, yellow corn or blue corn. The blue corn gordita was stuffed with rajas con queso, an ample serving of green chile strips and a bland, white cheese, which could have been elevated with an over-easy egg on it, and maybe a side of crispy bacon. The flour gordita was filled with asada de rancho, a grilled beef steak in a mild red sauce. Yummy! The street taco with tripitas (deep fried intestine) and onions and cilantro was simple but amazing. It had a fried calamari taste and feel. Crunchy, a little slimy, but flavorful. This was some good, authentic fare from the middle of Mexico, mainly influenced by the cuisines of Jalisco and Zacatecas. We loved the quesabirrias so much that we ordered two more and slammed them right down. As you can imagine, we left quite full and for just under $68 with tax and a generous tip. The Delta is a 10 suite inn that also caters to special events. The grounds are well maintained, the rooms are very large and the buildings are beautiful. Other than the dining room that we ate in, there are two more, much larger dining rooms and a lovely outdoor courtyard available for private bookings. La Fonda de Sol caters these as well as off location events. After our self guided tour, by the time we made our way back to the car, the sun was shining, and the sky was blue. I guess we no longer had an excuse for taking the day off, but decided to do so anyway. We did go home, but, instead of finishing the deck, we simply sat by it and watched the swollen river flow smoothly by. I highly recommend taking the next snow and hot sun day off. It still counts as a snow day! |
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