Jessica Rath For horses, donkeys, dogs, cats, and one pot-bellied pig! And, I almost forgot: two resident mice who live happily in a spacious terrarium. When I found out that there is an animal rescue organization in our area, I was excited because I love animals. And when I heard that their location was not far from where I live, I just had to learn more about it! The owners, Tina and Mike Kleckner, graciously agreed to meet with me, show me around, and let me take photographs. It was so heart-warming to get to know these two people who dedicate their lives to rescuing neglected, abandoned, threatened animals and to witness the deep, genuine love they give to their charges. They had no plans to take in animals when they bought their property in Youngsville. It sort of just happened – and the way they grew and changed with each new rescue is truly remarkable. It all started with one horse, Arrow. A good friend of Tina and Mike’s, Bridget McCombe from the Abiquiu Inn, had been rescuing horses from Oklahoma kill lots. Horse slaughter is outlawed in the United States, and any horse no longer useful to its owners will be sold or auctioned off at kill lots. From there, they’re sent to be slaughtered in Mexico. The transportation is inhumane and horrible. So, when Bridget had brought a truckload of horses back to Abuquiú and asked Tina and Mike whether they’d be willing to take one, they brought Arrow home. He was a thoroughbred off-track horse on his way to the slaughterhouse. Only three years old, he had won some 23 races, but because he was too young when they started racing him he developed a little bone spur, was deemed useless for making more money, and was sent off to slaughter. He changed the Kleckners’ lives, when they realized how much they could do for horse rescue. They acquired some more horses, but then, Mike told me, he really wanted a donkey. And a pig. When Tina came home from a weekend visit with her mother in Kansas, she was greeted with a loud HEE-HAW and first thought that their horse Belle had gotten ill with bronchitis! But no, this was Josephine. And soon after, they got another donkey, Wyatt. And quite recently they added Shoni, a donkey who had lost her siblings to sand colic – a serious gastrointestinal ailment which develops when the animal grazes on a sandy pasture. Since donkeys are very social creatures, the former owner felt that Shoni would be lonely all by herself, and so she joined Josephine and Wyatt. And the pig – I was curious, how did they end up with a pig? Tina explained: “ We’re now licensed by the State of New Mexico Livestock Board. We’re one of twelve licensed rescues in NM. When we get a call about an injured or hurt animal, we call the State of NM, and they will legally pick them up. They house them on their site for five days, and if nobody comes forth to say they are theirs, then we can legally adopt the animal. The State of NM called us a couple of months ago and said they had a pot-bellied pig that somebody had alerted them about over in Velarde. He was living in the wild, somebody must have dumped him, and his ears had recently been removed.” Mike added: “One ear was clearly cut off. The other ear was mangled, and dangled off his head.” Tina continued: “So, they asked, ‘Can you take the pig’? Pot-bellied pigs are considered pets, not livestock, so they couldn't take the pig, but they could pick it up and bring it to us, if we would be willing to give it a chance. We said, sure, bring him out. We knew nothing about pot-bellied pigs, but we knew nothing about horses either when we started, and we learned everything. So, they brought the pig, and we wondered, could it have been a coyote who bit off his ears, or a dog? But we noticed his reaction to human beings. He snapped at us like an alligator, he was mad at the humans, but he liked the dogs. Then we read up about earless pigs, and there were other cases where humans cut off their ears – to train their dogs for wild boar hunt. They use the pig with a bloody ear as bait. It took him a couple of weeks before he finally stopped snapping at us, and now he’s like a dog, he trusts us, but we had to earn his trust.” He probably can’t hear much because of the scar tissues around his ears, but all his wounds have healed really well. He wags his tail, and he loves everybody. “He gets along with the horses and the donkeys, and the dogs, and the humans. He’s part of the family”, Mike adds. “Pigs are so intelligent, I was trying to feed him, I had some older bananas cut up on a dish. I tried to put it down over the fence, and he figured out how to get the banana out of the dish which wasn’t easy for him to do because his mouth just doesn’t work that way. He turned the page about a week ago. He’s a totally different pig now. Before, when we had food, we had to be afraid he’d snap at us, but now he’s fine.” And what’s his name, I asked? Mike chuckled. “We didn’t know whether he was a boy or a girl. It’s hard to tell with a pig. We thought she was a girl and named her Piggy Sue, but then we found out he’s a boy. So Tina wanted to call him Sue anyway, because Johnny Cash wrote a song about “A Boy Named Sue''! Then somebody said, call him Sumo, so that’s what I like, and I call him Sumo.” But for Tina, his name is Piggy Sue. “If you listen to the words of the song, it’s just like our pig, because he snapped at us like an alligator. In the song, the parents called him Sue to make him stronger; he lost his ear in a bar fight, and he snapped at some guy like an alligator! This is too weird! So he’s got to be a Boy named Sue!” Mike said that they have a total of 26 animals that we’re feeding. Seven horses, three donkeys, six dogs, seven cats, and two mice! Another story! They have some barn cats, and they noticed that they were playing with something on the ground. Something tiny – the size of a thumb – no eyes – rolled up into a little ball. Mike exclaimed, it’s a baby mouse! No hair! He started stroking its chest, and soon he noticed that it’s breathing! He took it inside, researched what to do next, and learned: where there’s one there’s more. Sure enough, when he went back out he found another one. Mike got a tiny paint brush and some baby formula, and he set the alarm, and every four hours he would feed these two little mice. Nine days later, they opened their eyes. They probably were only a day old when he found them. They could never survive in the wild, once they’re used to being fed. Both Tina and Mike became quite attached to them. At a Holiday gathering they had a line of people waiting to go into the bathroom to see the two little mice (who live in a large terrarium) and to hold them because they are so cute. But if they had a male and a female, they’d multiply…. They called their equine vet who’s used to work on 1000-LB animals, and asked whether he could castrate the boy. “The vet thought we were nuts”, Mike laughs. “Finally somebody told us to wait another six weeks. If you have a male and female, you’ll have babies. But if you don’t, then you know you’ve got two females. And we never had babies.”. I was curious: “Did you already have this ranch when you took in the first horse?” Mike explained that they had the house, but nothing else. They went to Big R in Santa Fe, bought some horse panels, and built a round pen. Then they built the paddock where the horses spend most of their time. Then they fenced in some pasture land, then they built some walk-ins, so the animals could get out of the wind and the sun, and then they built a barn. It was a process, because there was absolutely nothing for horses here. They bought some water buckets and some horse panels and built the round pen – that’s how it started. When I looked around outside, at the two big barns, the different paddocks, and the feeding stations with lots of hay, I was duly impressed. What a labor of love! Tina agrees. “ We had the heart and the passion, the willpower to do so, but it was a lot!” Mike adds that they started in 2018, so everything one can see has been accomplished in the last five/six years. It’s been a journey! Mike and Tina have so many stories about all their rescued animals, one could write a book. Here is another one, the story of Marshall, a German shepherd mix. They had a chihuahua when they first moved out here, and the poor creature was killed by a coyote – right in front of Tina’s eyes. So, they decided they needed a big dog. Two days later Tina found a totally emaciated dog right by the Youngsville post office, one could see each of his rib bones. And he followed her home, two miles on a dirt road. When the dog saw the rain barrel he just plopped right in it and started drinking. Then he took a big dump, and out came a ketchup package from McDonalds’ – he must have been scavenging for a while. He was so emaciated and had mange all over. Tina and Mike decided to clean him up and started feeding him – that’s how they got Marshall. He’s not a marshal but a marshmallow, Tina claims, but he does a good job chasing off the coyotes. The Horseshoe Canyon Rescue Ranch is limited to taking in only ten large animals. For other animals, Tina and Mike try to find connections; for example, the Christ in the Desert Monastery has two horses that they arranged. “This is good, because Mike and I do this all by ourselves”, Tina adds. “We don’t have help. So, we don’t want to get so big that we can’t give each animal proper care. That’s our mission right now; we had a call yesterday about nine wild mustangs in Colorado – would we take them? We can’t, but I connected them with somebody who can. We have a huge network now, the State helps us a lot with that too.” “ This work comes with a lot of heartache. We had our first equine loss last week, Belle, she probably was in her twenties. She was the first horse we directly purchased from the kill lot. That was tough. She’s in a great spot now, in the back, where we have a little cemetery.” Tina is clearly moved, but she has a wise strategy that helps with grief. “A friend told us, ‘this dog or horse taught you so much to love, and now in your heart you have room for another one.’ When we lose an animal, we make sure we fill that spot right away.” Mike adds, “ When we lost a cat, we came back with two! Another one of our special needs, he’s blind in one eye, and only one ear! This is Rocky – from the Rocky-movie – and we got Adrienne, his girlfriend, both from the shelter.” With Marshall as guard dog and three donkeys (they keep coyotes away too), Mia, the chihuahua mix, can safely enjoy the sun. What a pleasure to know that all these animals who otherwise would be suffering or dead have such a safe, happy place for the rest of their lives. Thank you, Tina and Mike Kleckner!
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~AlwayReal
A friend of ours needed a reprieve from the stifling heat of Austin, Texas, and asked if she could come stay a few nights to relax, cool off and maybe get some river floats in. We said, of course, we always have room for friends! So, a few days later, she drove up with her three chihuahua mixes. We got her settled into our sweet little guest quarters and gathered to make plans for the few days that she’d be with us. The weather has been all over the place, sometimes downright chilly! I’m a temperature wimp, most happy at degrees between 70 and 85, and had no interest in plunging into our cold river. None of us did, so we decided to take her on a driving tour. Three humans and our collective five dogs piled into our roomy van and headed north. We planned to drive to Ghost Ranch and maybe go for a hike, knowing that even if the dark, looming clouds turned into thunderous heavy rain, she would likely get a thrill out of the amazing visuals alone. It’s unbelievable to me that we are lucky enough to live amongst this stunning landscape. Ghost Ranch is always breathtakingly beautiful and this day was no exception. We collectively decided to not risk getting caught in a lightning storm mid hike, so headed out with Echo Amphitheater as our next stop. Sadly, it was still closed for these ominous upgrades that I keep reading about in the Abiquiu News. My bar is getting higher and higher for the big reveal. Ah well, she’ll have to wait until her next visit. Our end destination was slated to be the town of Chama, where we hoped to grab some lunch before heading back home. Driving into Chama is a different experience each time I go. My wife and I have been there during art festivals where the town is thriving and packed with locals and tourists. All the gift shops and restaurants are open and the charming coal train is spewing black toxic fumes into the clear blue sky. Other times it looks like a ghost town, shuttered, quiet and gray. This trip was one of those. Driving in, we were almost the only car on the road and hardly any businesses were open. We cruised the mile long tourist strip. Foster’s Bar kind of looked open, so I volunteered to hop in to do recon on the food situation. The bar was open with a handful of locals, but the restaurant was not. On our way into town, we passed Local, which had a sign saying that they would open today at 4. That gave us about 40 minutes to do a driving tour of the behind the scenes town. I love looking at architecture and was happy to have the time and the forced company of my wife who really doesn’t like to be kidnapped on these excursions at all. In this case, she had no choice and she ended up admitting to enjoying it a little. When we pulled up to Local, the outdoor gas fire pit was aroar and nice music was softly playing in the large, attractive outdoor seating area. We leashed up our pack, hoping to sit at one of the inviting tables by the fire, but it was too cold, so we loaded all the furries back in the van and got a nice table inside. This place has a really nice feel inside and out. It’s got a ski lodge vibe with, hopefully, fake game heads, comfortable couches, individual and group tables, tall ceilings and the biggest etch-a-sketch hanging on the wall that I’ve ever seen. It’s an order at the counter setup, which allowed us to ogle the huge, wood fired pizza oven in the very clean, open concept kitchen. Seeing that, we opted for pizza. We also ordered a couple of cups of the soup of the day, which was a delicious and very spicy chorizo chili with beans. Not being super hungry, we ordered only one pizza to share. They have one size, a 14 incher. We went for “The Rustler,” which had pepperoni, bacon and green chile. My wife ordered one of their many beers on tap and our friend and I asked for water. As many readers know, Chama has been having issues with their water for a very long time now. They ran out of water last summer after not fixing a long term leak in their storage tank and now are dealing with a “boil advisory.” Thus, we were offered bottled water at $2 a pop. Thankfully, they allowed us to bring in our personal water bottles from the car. The chili arrived first and we dug right in. I have a high spice tolerance and preference, but this version was spicy! I asked the nice GM for a side of sour cream to soften the tongue burn. It helped and I truly enjoyed it to the last spoonful of the black bean-y chorizo yumminess. I hope this becomes a regular choice on the menu. Our pizza arrived in a cloud of delicious aroma. It was perfect! A soft mozzarella cheese atop a savory subtle tomato sauce. The bacon, pepperoni and chili were a nice trio to compliment the perfectly crunchy and tasty wood baked crust. We all agreed that this is the best pizza in this part of the world and wished that we had ordered more. The last time I had crust this perfect was in Naples, Italy. Just sayin’… One unfortunate part was that everything was served on paper or plastic, which was confusing as the prices are on the higher side and there were attractively rolled high quality napkins resting on cute, small, metal trays that we happily assumed were intended for the pizza. Furthermore, we were brought way too many paper plates and plastic forks and knives that we didn’t use but hoped would not be tossed. We had to ask why this was the case, and were told that it’s the way that they are dealing with the “boil advisory.” I did see a commercial dishwasher and do not understand why this wouldn’t suffice as methods of commercial sanitization require boiling water and/or a chemical sanitizer. It was a bit confusing to use plastic-ware along with thick, dense cloth napkins and I wish there had been something posted to tell customers the situation. But, I do understand that restaurants have to make decisions that don’t always make sense to the patrons. Overall, we really liked this place and hope that the town of Chama can figure out the water issues and continue to head in the direction it seems to be going, which is up. Lets keep it local by visiting Local! FYI a small lunch was about 50 bucks, but keep in mind their prices include a 15% service charge so we don’t need to figure tip into the total.
~ Brian Bondy
The world is an amazing place. It’s natural beauty, it’s glorious variety, it’s amazing opportunities for adventure. Sometimes though, nature plays ‘tricks’ on us. Hurricanes, earth quakes, volcanoes, sinkholes, etc. Yes, the world is a fascinating place. If you’ve never been to Yellowstone National Park, then you are missing out on seeing some natural wonders that are very active and somewhat dangerous. Geysers, hot springs, mud pots. They are glorious. One thing though, they pretty much stay in one place. There’s a mud spring in California that’s been moving about 20 feet a year, since 2016. So, like Melanie, ‘don’t go too fast, but it’s gone pretty far’. I paraphrase. This mud spring started in a farmer’s field in 1953. It wasn’t moving then, just appeared in a field and sat patiently, not causing any particular harm, for decades. In 2016, the farmer noticed the mud spring had moved. In 2018, the spring was moving towards a railroad, so the railroad attempted to block it….unsuccessfully. So, while this all sounds like one of my April Fools jokes, it’s true, and there’s a great video on it, below.
Watch the video and learn why they think the mud puddle started moving. The video comes from someone called Physicsgirl, on YouTube. She has other interesting videos as well.
Ben Daitz According to Albert Einstein, “The only thing that you absolutely have to know is the location of the library.” No doubt Einstein was confident about the locations of many libraries, but so too are the folks who live in rural New Mexico, in the villages of Vallecitos, El Rito, Dixon, Abiquiu, Magdalena, and Glenwood, and other small communities across this state, and the country. They know exactly where their libraries are, and that they are essential to the educational and social fabric of their communities. I can tell you about New Mexico’s rural libraries because Shel Neymark told my wife, Mary Lance, and me stories about several of them at a party, during a break while playing music together. Neymark, in his early 70’s, is a jazz fiddle player, a nationally known ceramic artist, and community organizer, who was honored this year, along with 9 other “New Mexicans who made a difference.” Shel Neymark’s difference is his creation of The New Mexico Rural Library Initiative, which prompted the legislature to establish a New Mexico Rural Library Endowment Fund, a hoped-for permanent support base for the 55 rural and tribal libraries in New Mexico. . Mary and I are documentary filmmakers--- and bibliophiles--- and in the dreary doldrums of the pandemic, a trip to a rural library felt like a nice break, and maybe a good story. The next week, we booked it---we met Shel at the Vallecitos Library. Vallecitos The road to the Vallecitos winds through the high desert, sage covered mesas of Northern New Mexico, then gradually ascends, curving above a string of little valleys--- Vallecitos, in Spanish. The village of Vallecitos is nestled in the last of the valleys, and if you miss the turn-off, the paved road ends soon after, at the boundary of the Carson National Forest, where the villagers’ livelihoods logging that forest ended decades ago. The narrow lane to the library, past eroding adobe walls framed by stately old cottonwoods is a starkly beautiful picture of hard times. Vallecitos is one of the most economically depressed communities in a state with the same problem. The 2020 census counted 238 people living in and around this village, and they are an aging population. There are few children here, and the closest elementary school is 25 miles over a mountain pass, the closest grocery store about 50 miles. There is no cell phone service, the internet is absent or limited, but there are 2 landlines, real telephones--- one at the firehouse, and the other at the Vallecitos Community Center and Library. Ernie Giron grew up here, moved away and came back. He is a wiry, ruggedly handsome, mustachioed, man in his mid 60’s, who has been a logger, fire-fighter, musician, and former Chief of the Vallecitos Fire Department. He’s also a craftsman who helped, along with other community members, to renovate and restore the Vallecitos Community Center and Library. Ernie is the Vice President of the Library Board. Ernie will tell you that the library’s thick adobe walls were probably built in the 1880s, when this isolated community of Spanish and Native Americans, who farmed and cut timber to sustain their families, became loggers, cutting pine and spruce for the railroad ties and train cars that ultimately hauled their future away to Santa Fe and Denver. When the mills were working, Vallecitos had several bars, a dance hall, baseball teams, a horse racing track, and a general store that became a run-down adobe ruin, rumored to have a marijuana grow inside. It’s now been lovingly restored by the community, full of books, DVDs, and computer terminals. Marlene Fahey, a former corporate executive who retired with her husband to Vallecitos, began a second career as a volunteer librarian and manager of the Vallecitos water system. “Many people here do not have a telephone,” Fahey said. “Many people do not have electricity or running water. So they come to the library. They can use the computers, make photocopies, send faxes.” During the worst of the Pandemic, the library’s telephone was available day and night on a bench under the front portal. Fahey and other community volunteers provided transportation to clinics, hospitals, and shopping for people with disabilities and no transportation. The library’s internet access was the only option for kids’ on-line learning while their schools were closed. Volunteers offered additional tutoring in the library’s main bookroom, lined with shelves, and comfortably heated in winter by the woodstove. “This Library is kind of like their connection to the world,” Ernie Giron said, talking about his community, “cellphones don’t work here, and a lot of folks come here at nighttime and just park here so they can get wifi.” We’d come to visit on an early summer afternoon when the library was sponsoring a talk about researching family genealogy. The event was festive—homemade enchiladas and frito pies with musicians playing in the background. Former residents of the village who’d returned for the occasion were comparing childhood memories. Shel was sitting under the long portal of the library. “We’re hoping that the Rural Endowment Fund will help libraries, like this one, hire employees and pay them well. This place and so many others are staffed just by volunteers.” he said. “One of the big problems in rural libraries is that employees are paid minimum wage or a few dollars above it,” Shel said. “There’s a library director in Northern New Mexico who managed a $500,000 capital project, besides running the library, managing volunteers, writing grants, and she gets paid $12 an hour, and that’s just not right as far as I’m, concerned, and librarians around the state in rural areas are getting that kind of salary.” Ernie Giron and his community’s digital connection to the rest of the world is not as important as their love of place. They chose to live in rural America, along with over 200 million others, and it’s clear this library has become a center of their wellbeing---an important educational and social determinate of their community’s health. Dixon Cipriano Vigil is from Chamisal New Mexico, one of the centuries old mountain villages along the so-called “high road” to Taos. Now in his 80’s, he is to New Mexican folk music what red or green chile are to enchiladas. An honored musician and archivist of traditional songs, he tells the story of learning to play the guitar by hanging out with the “resolaneros”, groups of musicians who gathered to play in front of a sun-warmed adobe wall. Resolana means a sunny spot, a warm inviting place--- like a library--- and the Embudo Valley Library and Community Center, just down the road from Chamisal, has both adopted the word and replicated the feeling. It’s worked. In 2015, The library, in the village of Dixon, was winner of the National Medal of Museum and Library Services. Spanish settlers named this fertile valley and the river that drains it, Embudo--- a funnel--- channeling its flow to the nearby canyon of the Rio Grande. It is home to Hispanic, Pueblo, and Anglo people--- farmers, ranchers and artisans. Many rural libraries are also community centers, in both name and function, and if you’re driving through Dixon, downtown is the library, and its complex of adjacent buildings. Shel Neymark was one of the founders 30 years ago, in a run-down house with stacks of donated books and the help of community volunteers. The library’s collections are now in a new, solar-powered building with a bank of windows looking out at a heritage apple orchard. Next door is a very popular thrift store whose proceeds help support the library, and next to that, a thriving combination food coop, deli-restaurant which pays the library rent. On the adobe-plastered outside wall of the food coop is a 20 foot long, sinuous ceramic sculpture, a tiled topo map of the Embudo Valley and it’s acequias, the ancient irrigation ditches that feed the valley’s small farms and its people. Neymark supervised and mentored a group of teenage Dixeños who made it. It’s a town landmark. A new community center is under construction, and meanwhile, broadcasting 24/7 from a cramped room in the thrift store is KLDK, 96.5, a community run low power, FM radio station. Every Saturday morning, Archie Tafoya is at the mic with the “Arcenio El Norteño” show, a mix of Northern New Mexico music, local news and chatter in Spanglish. Archie, a jovial, gentle, life-long resident of Dixon is a poet, musician, and retired from his job at the Los Alamos laboratory. “We are all siblings of the library,” he says, “the library has been very influential in keeping the culture of the area. And it’s a source to come to. I hear people say, ‘Yeah, I need to go to the library to get this faxed, or help with my taxes’, “and the library seems to be the center they come to.” Tafoya attributes the library’s success to Shel Neymark and a dedicated group of volunteers. Shel told us that most libraries are funded by municipalities, but rural libraries in unincorporated areas need to be 501(c)3, non-profits, and according to New Mexico’s archaic anti-donation law, they can’t receive state funds for structural improvements, or even to pay the electric bill. Shel was successful several years ago in getting bipartisan support for the Rural Library Endowment with an initial $13 million legislative appropriation, but he’s after $50 million, which at a 5% State investment would give each of the rural libraries about $45 thousand a year. Glenwood Heading west from Socorro, in the center of the state, you reach the Catron County line about halfway across the vast plains of San Augustine. In the 1990’s, Catron County was called “The Toughest County in the West,” because of conflicts between ranchers, loggers, environmentalists, and the U.S. Forest Service over land use, spotted owls, and wolves. In 1993, The Catron County Commission passed an ordinance requiring every citizen to own a gun. It’s still on the books. On this August day, the Plains of San Augustine are dressed in sunflowers, a gown of yellow extending to the Very Large Array, a line of giant radio-telescopes whose round faces also bend to the heavens, like alien sentries along the horizon. The Village of Glenwood, population 57, In the southwestern corner of the county, is ranching country, and conservative, hard by the Arizona border to the west, and the vast Gila Wilderness to the east. Like Vallecitos, there are no grocery stores here. The elementary school is closed for lack of students, and the few remaining are bused to a school 30 minutes away. Lynn Neidermayer is the Glenwood Community Library’s director and sole employee. She is exuberant, engaging, and an accomplished ceramic artist whose whimsical tile work, along with child and adult contributors, adorns the outside back wall of the library. Most everybody for miles around seems to know her and values her book-cased domain as a safe place--- a space that has helped to bridge this rural community’s political and environmental divide. She began that effort 12 years ago by starting a monthly book club. This morning, Neidermayer is facilitating a lively discussion of The Chilbury Ladies' Choir by Jennifer Ryan, among, as she described them, six very diverse women. The only rules---you can talk about the book, your family, your vacation, or yourself, but not politics. “What I love,” Neidermayer says, “is bringing people together, the ranchers and the environmentalists who would normally be in two different worlds, opposing each other. I’m trying to make the library a place where both can meet and feel safe.” Her next job was attending to a family of 4 teenagers, driven by their mom from Reserve, the county seat, an hour north. The kids are out-of-central-casting wholesome, engaging, and smart. They are also home-schooled, and this is their library. They each arrive with a big shopping bag for books, and leave with them stacked full, many recommended by Neidermayer, along with wise literary critiques. The library’s collection is impressive, over 11,000 books, 3000 dvd’s, and 600 audio books, each extensively described and cataloged thanks to a volunteer, Mike Rose, a retired professor of anatomy who has taken special pride in developing the classics section. Neidermayer says the audio books are extremely popular because folks must drive so far to get supplies, to visit the doctor. And for people who can’t get out because of disabilities or lack of transportation, Lynn Neidermayer makes home visits. Today, she visits a woman who recently lost her husband, and a man who she describes as a bit of a hermit, bringing them books, dvds and just plain kindness. Abiquiu The adobe walls of the Santa Rosa de Lima church are still standing, but the sanctuary is open to the sky. A mile south of Abiquiu, the ruin is marked by a large white cross. The church was built in 1744 by Spanish settlers, an outpost of families on the frontier, who were repeatedly forced to retreat to Española, 20 miles south, because of raids by Comanche, Ute, Navajo, and Apache bands. Then, some Spanish official had an interesting idea. Why not send the Genizaros up to Abiquiu. Genizaro comes from Janissary, slaves of the old Ottoman Empire, forced to fight as an elite corps for the Sultan. In their conquest of New Mexico, the Spanish also captured Pueblo and other Indians and enslaved them, albeit with a redeeming dose of Catholicism thrown in. If they were sent to Abiquiu, maybe they could be a friendly deterrent to attack. Abiquiu, sited on a mesa above the Rio Chama with a commanding view of the surrounding red rock canyons had been the site of a pueblo called Moqui, where Hopi-Tewa people had lived well before the Spanish invasion. The Genizaros reclaimed it, and families of their descendants, 3 centuries later, started the Pueblo of Abiquiu Library and Cultural Center. The library, just across the Plaza from St. Thomas the Apostle Church, used to be a family home. Now, a painting of Avanyu, the Tewa water serpent, floats above the entrance. An old adobe with wandering rooms full of books, computers, and glass cases of art and artifacts, it’s open to all. It looks and feels like a traditional library, but it has become a center of Genizaro research nationally. Scholars and graduate students from major universities have come here and used genomic testing to validate peoples’ multi-tribal heritage, they’ve studied community members’ attitudes about their history, and written theses about its irrigation systems and rock art, its culture. “We listen to the concerns of our community, and we try to address them in our programming,” Isabel Trujillo said. Trujillo, a vibrant, welcoming is the director of the library, and largely responsible for coordinating its research efforts. “We try to highlight local native arts, you know, because that pertains to us and our history,” Trujillo said. And to reinforce that history, she was leading the weekly teenage book club in a discussion of “An Indigenous People’s History of the United States for Young People,” by Roxanne Dunbar-Ortiz. On this summer day, a dozen elementary school kids are assembled on the library’s shaded patio, hand-building micaceous pots under the tutelage of Debbie Carrillo, a master potter, originally from Abiquiu. “For a very long time, this library did not exist. There was nothing like this here. Culture and community was basically the church,” Carrillo said. “Culture here in Abiquiu and the surrounding area was not even viewed as culture, because guess what? We live the culture, and the library preserves it.” Magdalena
Sometime in the 1590’s, about 30 miles west of Socorro, in central New Mexico, a Spanish soldier, perhaps over-tired from a long march looking for gold, thought he saw the image of Mary Magdalene on the side of a mountain. A priest agreed, reminded of a mountain with a similar image in Spain. If Mary Magdalene was a good omen, and gold the everlasting quest, they missed the clue. 300 years later, in the 1880’s, Magdalena’s Kelly Mines started digging gold, silver, zinc, and lead below the mountain’s face. Around the same time, ranchers from western New Mexico and eastern Arizona began driving their cattle and sheep across the vast Plains of San Augustine toward the brand-new Santa Fe rail line that had just reached Socorro. A spur line west to Magdalena meant big business in both meat and mining, and the new Santa Fe depot marked Magdalena’s motto, “The End of the Trail.” The mines and the cattle drive are long gone, but the original Santa Fe depot has been the Magdalena library for over 40 years, and Ivy Stover is the librarian. “I’m the library director, I’m the catalogue librarian, I’m the children’s librarian and the reference librarian and the adult librarian,” Ivy said, sitting at her desk in the station manager’s office next to the ticket window, “I’m in charge of programs, setting them up, making them happen, physically setting up, like chairs and such.” Plus, she conducts tours of the Boxcar Museum, an old Santa Fe Box car, filled with mining, railroad and cattle-drive memorabilia on a siding next to the library. Ivy Stover, a vibrant young woman with a carnation in her hair, grew up in Socorro and was a library aide in high school. She has a degree in creative writing and a master’s in library science, but that didn’t prepare her for starting a new job in a pandemic. “When the schools were closed and they were trying to figure out on-line schooling, I taught kids how to do crafts in story-time videos on Facebook Live. I’d read a story and then show kids a simple craft they could do at home,” Ivy said. Today, she’s teaching kids how to code---eight elementary and middle school children, on summer vacation, but busy on a bank of computers learning computer code, making their own video games. The kids are from the Kids Science Café, located just around the corner, a non-profit that offers experiential scientific opportunities for these lucky rural kids. The Café and the library are partners. “This library was one of the first places in town to have internet,” Ivy said,” and now we and the schools have fiber-optic as part of a pilot program.” “I believe libraries provide intrinsic value to their communities. I hear it all the while when people come in, ‘Oh wow, I didn’t know Magdalena had a library!’ It really feels like having a library in a rural community provides a sense of legitimacy. We’re one of the pillars of the community, one of the institutions.” *********** Shel Neymark is driving to Santa Fe for Library Day at the New Mexico legislature. The state coffers are full of oil and gas money, and everybody wants some. Shel leads a long line of librarians to the offices of representatives and senators on both sides of the aisle, handing out leaflets and lobbying for a full $50 million in Rural Library Endowment Fund. He’s told by a State Senator and sponsor of the bill that there may only be an additional $15 million. That would give each of the rural libraries about $25 thousand a year. “Not nearly enough,” Neymark says, “it’s still not a living wage for what these librarians do, and what they mean to their communities.” He promises to be back next year.
Designed by Renowned Architect and Woodworker George Nakashima
~Jessica Rath
If one wants to visit Christ in the Desert, the Benedictine monastery near Abiquiú, one has to drive north on US 84 past Ghost Ranch, and turn left on Forest Road 151. It’s a dirt road which becomes quite winding and steep at times, with towering sandstone walls on one side and deep chasms on the other. Signs warning of flash floods and falling boulders aren’t reassuring either. While I was driving along the almost 15 miles for my meeting with Brother Chrysostom, Guestmaster at the monastery, it struck me that hardly anything had changed during the almost 60 years since the monastery was founded. The road was just as rugged, just as undeveloped now as it was around 1964.
This was definitely one of the reasons for choosing the location, as Brother Chrysostom later explained to me. The site of the monastery is surrounded by the Santa Fe National Forest, which would guarantee the silence and solitude required for the monastic life.
The monastery was founded on June 24, 1964, the day of the Feast of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of the Order of St. Benedict to which Christ in the Desert belongs. There was only a ranch house, nothing else was there. Father Aelred Wall had found the site, and became its first Prior. With very limited resources but lots of dedication, Father Aelred and a handful of fellow monks began to build a community which would eventually provide a home for around 18 monks, accommodate overnight guests, maintain a gift shop, AND offer solar-powered electricity!
The first building that went up was the chapel. Father Aelred turned to his personal friend George Nakashima, a Japanese American architect and furniture maker who had won numerous awards, for the design of the chapel. Because he knew that the monks had no money, Nakashima offered his services for free. Another benefactor was Georgia O’Keeffe; the Christ in the Desert Monastery website sports a lovely picture from the mid-1960s of Father Aelred, George Nakashima, and Georgia O’Keeffe
Brother Chrysostom provided me with lots of interesting details about Nakashima’s life. His parents immigrated to the United States, and he was born in Spokane, Washington, in 1905. He earned his Masters in Architecture from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in 1931 (incidentally, Brother Chrysostom is an alumni of MIT as well). After graduating, he spent a year in Paris, then went to Japan, and eventually to India. In Japan he had worked for the American architect Antonin Raymond. When Raymond’s company was commissioned to build Golconde, a dormitory for the Sri Aurobindo Ashram in Pondicherry, Nakashima finished the project after Raymond returned to America.
All this happened years before he came to Christ in the Desert. He was a world-traveler, a seeker, trying to find out what his purpose was. Brother Chrysostom called him an amazing man who wanted to experience everything on a deep level. When he was in Japan, Nakashima had met Marion Okajima, who would become his wife. They returned to the United States in the early 1940s when Nakashima became convinced that as a builder of furniture he could achieve his standards of design and craftsmanship. And then they were interned as Japanese Americans during WW2, George, Marion, and their young daughter Mira. At the relocation camp in Idaho he met a man trained in traditional Japanese carpentry who taught him the use of traditional Japanese hand tools and joinery techniques.
In 1943, the architect Antonin Raymond who had become an honorary consul and had quite a bit of influence, vouched for Nakashima and his family and they were released from the internment camp. They moved to resettle in New Hope, Pennsylvania, where slowly George built his shop and home on several acres of hilly woodland. From there, Nakashima became entrenched in woodworking, and by 1949 he was established as a designer and builder of fine, handcrafted furniture.
Father Aelred had connections to many important and famous people, that’s how he happened to get George Nakashima involved with the design of the chapel. According to Brother Chrysostom, it is arguably one of the tallest adobe structures in the world, because of the steeple! Nakashima designed it, and it was built with the help of volunteers over a number of years. It was first used in 1968, and ever since. Brother Chrysostom thinks that Nakashima probably was involved with the choosing of the site, the location where the church would sit, given the majestic view of the canyon behind it. “Thomas Merton once remarked on one of his two visits here that this church is probably the most monastic church in the U.S. the way it is situated, the architecture, everything”. That is high praise, indeed.
I asked whether he did any furniture for the church? “Yes indeed, he created some of the pews and seats in the original configuration. We no longer have those, we have other pews that were crafted in Mexico and brought up here. But our tables and chairs in the refectory are pure Nakashima. They’re very heavy and durable and probably last 600 years!”
I had to ask Brother Chrysostom about his name: is it Greek?
“Yes, I’m named after my Patron Saint, St. John Chrysostom of Antioch who was one of the early patriarchs in the church, I didn’t get the name because my secular name was John. Generally when we enter the monastic life we get a completely changed name, that’s the whole purpose, your life has changed. Chrysostom was the name that I submitted, St. John Chrysostom was a doctor of the church, and what he was known for was his preaching. His name is actually an adjective, it means Golden Mouth. His name was John, and Chrysostom was an add-on. It’s a high standard to reach!” I think he can be very proud of that name!
I’ll close with a quote by Nakashima about the concept of the buildings:
“Architecture and structure are not just abstract ideas; they must relate to the environment of the building and the materials available; in a sense a structure evolves from the materials used. I am at war with the usual architectural practice of starting with form; this is an egotistical concept for then you are left having to fit structure into form. Here, we are 25 miles from the next town and getting materials is a big task in itself. But we have adobe in the Canyon and we have vegas, so it’s natural to use them. The use of adobe affects the structure and appearance of a building. The walls have to be very thick, between three or four feet; the openings are therefore small and the form of the building is necessarily very different from most modern buildings with their large expanses of glass and curtain walls”. Jubilee, September 1065. Many thanks to Brother Chrysostom who kindly took the time to chat with me, and with gratitude to Mira Nakashima and David B. Long for providing me with a number of useful newspaper clippings! What an extreme treat to have such perfect weather for the entire memorial weekend! One of my most favorite parts of getting to live in Abiquiu on the Chama river is being lucky enough to to play in the beautiful but silty water. It’s been such an unusual May. Almost every day I think, “today is the day that I’ll go in for my first dip of the year,” but every day it’s just been too darn chilly or raining with thunder and lightning. Until this last Sunday! We had planned for my wife and I and four friends to kayak from one of their houses, a mile up river, to our shore, weather permitting. Sunday was the perfect day to do just that, so we all suited up, gathered our gear and a few of our more adventurous dogs and piled into the truck. We have done this float many times and are very comfortable with putting in and taking out, but my goodness, things were very different this time! The water was extremely high and moving very fast. We cautiously steered our vessels, nose first, into the rushing current, loaded gear and fur babies and jumped on hoping not to tip over right away. It was fabulous! This trip usually takes around 40 minutes, but this time, it took only 20. By the time we came to our grassy shore, we were all smiles and wanting to do it again. We’d opened up our guest trailer for the weekend, to a family that we had not yet met. When we bobbed up to our bank, they were all enjoying the river. The two young boys were fishing with their dad and mom was soaking up the sun on a camp chair. The boys were shyly in awe of our arrival and mom looked very excited about the possibility of having this adventure herself. They helped us out of the water, asking how our trip went, to which we all responded with exuberant “it was great and we’re going again!” I couldn’t resist the sparkle in their eyes of the obvious desire to join us, so said, “we have another kayak big enough for three of you if you’d like to jump in…” A little more gear gathering and life vests for the boys, and off we went for round two. Again, it was a wonderful time made further enjoyable by getting to see mom and the boys have such a good time. Being on the water always makes me hungry. Fortunately, my wife had thought ahead and remembered to order pizza for lunch, hoping to time it right for the post-kayak hangries. This can be a tricky effort when ordering from our local pizza joint. Mamacita’s Pizza is a valued business in our small community being one of the few options in the valley. I’m pretty sure that this is a one person show and can imagine it’s hard to keep up with the demand on busy weekends. That said, I’m often baffled by some of the experiences that we have had there. We tried to follow the previously instructed rules by calling the day before to confirm that they were open and ask if we should preorder now, call in early the day of, or just order when we were ready to eat. We were told an emphatic “it’s memorial weekend, definitely preorder at noon because I will run out!” So, my wife set an alarm and called on the dot, at noon the next day but was chastised anyway for trying to pre order for later that afternoon on such a busy day, and that if she didn’t order right now, pay and come to get it, she’d be *#$@ outta luck! This is what I’m referring to by “tricky”. So the wife obediently ordered, picked it up and stowed it in our oven on the warm setting to dig into several hours later. The pizza was good. It’s always good. A nice, I’m guessing, sourdough crust, layered with a balanced savory sauce and a melty mozzarella. We ordered two pies, the Veggie Supreme and the other extra pepperoni, green chile and red onion. The green chile was sparse, but perfectly spicy and any more would likely have caused a fire on my tongue. The pepperoni, of which I would consider to be a “regular” amount and red onion balanced and enhanced the spicy chile. The veggie pizza was excellent and had plenty of green peppers, onions, tomatoes, olives and mushrooms embedded in the saucy cheesy pie. As always, we over ordered and we’re very satisfied and happy laying on our grassy lawn with plenty of slices left over for future lunches. The portions from Mamacitas are generous, but not on the cheap side. For two jumbos, the total was about $62. On the menu I see more than pizza, including wings, subs, salads and “garlic stix.” Next time I will try to branch out a bit and let you all know how it goes. I also look forward to future river adventures this summer and to enjoying the likely new friendship we will have with this lovely family that we got to share our weekend with.
~Brian Bondy
Humankind definitely has a penchant for forcing the world around us to change for our “benefit”. Sometimes it’s trying to bend the will of others to believe something different, like religion, science, or justice. It may also be to change the world around us to be more accommodating, building dams, clearing forests, plowing fields. These changes can cause conflict, alleviate hunger, alter nature. It’s quite the mixed bag. Arguably, we wouldn’t be where we are without fossil fuels. It would be easy to see that as a positive and a negative. Sometimes maybe, we just don’t know when it’s time to quit. Nobody likes change, but really, nobody likes change unless it’s easy. I wrote about how humans changed wild animals into domesticated cats and dogs. The same goes true for cattle, pigs, and chickens. This is the food we eat because this is the food that is served to us in grocery stores. When I was a kid, I got served squirrel and didn’t think anything of it. Today that seems odd, but I have a Better Homes & Garden cookbook from the 60’s that shows how to skin and prep a squirrel and a rabbit. I was looking up ‘how humans have modified their food’ How humanity has changed the food it eats - BBC Future and the results were fascinating. It also came up with articles on how humans have changed because of the food they eat. The first thing that caught my eye was how, since humans have cooked their food thus making it easier to chew, this evolved our faces to become smaller and our jaws less powerful. Humans’ civilization begins with farming. Food supplies being localized meant that they did not have to continuously wander in search of something to eat. Groups could form to help with protection, education, food production, etc. And the food could be selectively bred to be more productive, larger, sweeter, whatever the needs. Read some on that HERE. How Humans Have Changed Fruit (businessinsider.com) Forests were cleared, dams were built, pesticides were sprayed, wolves were killed. Unintended consequences happened. Today, genetic modification is done to help enhance plant growth. In some cases, generous scientists have created rice that will survive longer periods under water. They donated this genetic modification to the world, which helped some starving nations to grow rice where their regular crops failed due to the new, unusual weather patterns occurring today. Monsanto, of course, was famous for patenting their seed products, then selling them everywhere. They could then sue farmers that were not buying their product, but the farmer’s crops were contaminated with Monsanto corn from neighboring crops. That was likely a conspiracy theory, a story you can read about HERE. There is genetic engineering going on to help alleviate hunger, produce pest resistant food, and even to produce milk and meat in a lab, not from animals. It’s happening right now. The promise of solving food shortages, and maybe even vegetarian compatible meat, vegan compatible milk, that has some seriously great promise. And, like AI, artificial intelligence, it has some seriously scary possibilities. Cats & Dogs, Cows & Pigs, Wheat and Soy, they are all genetically modified, some by selective breeding, some in a lab. Where do you draw the line? This year's El Rito studio tour was different from the last few. I’m not sure, but it felt like there were a lot less mapped out stops and a lot more conglomerative efforts. Which was disappointing to me because, if I am being completely honest, I mostly go to these events to sate my intense passion for real estate. I love it all. Architecture, landscape design, people’s personal and ever eclectic choices in furnishing and art…wait, art, that’s what it’s all about! Back to topic here. So…. There was a lot of amazing art. I particularly was drawn to the fiber arts this year. So many soft, woven lengths of home spun or uniquely brought together fibers. I’m amazed by the vision and the patience one must have to create these wonders.
I was happy to finally see behind the sleepy curtain of Northern New Mexico College. They were slated to have 30 plus artists, live music and food available to tour goers. We arrived at noon and it was hopping with action and people and cars and music. We were hungry and glad that there was food at this stop. But, there wasn’t any food left. They had run out, at noon, on day one. Oops. Hangrily, my wife and I made the rounds to ogle every single table laden with every expression of art out there. We left feeling satisfied, art wise, hungry and determined to finish the tour anyway. We didn’t quite make it to each and every stop but I am very glad to have stopped at number 9, David McClister’s house, which used to be a gas station and was very intriguing, as was David and his work. If you don’t already know, he’s a photographer whose interest seems to be famous musicians. He’s had sessions with Taylor Swift, Dolly Parton, Emmy Lou, Willie Nelson and countless others. Assuming that he gets to choose his subjects, it’s clear that we have similar musical taste. We ended our tour with the El Rito library, hoping for food. There were several, long tables filled with sweets and a couple of tables boasting hot dogs, but no actual hot dogs. I did grab a bowl of red chile con carne and was very thankful for the generous library folk for providing all the free sweet fare, of which my wife and I grabbed some to go. Still ravenous, and with much more of the day ahead of us than we had planned for, we decided that we’d make the long trip to Santa Fe because we all sometimes need to. This is our thirteenth article on the local run around in Abiquiu and this one is taking us to Santa Fe. If we are all honest, we all need to go there time and again. Thus, El Rito, Cheato. Having lived in and around Santa Fe for thirty plus years, I know the food scene there well. Out of all the choices in front of us, we chose, as we often did when we lived within walking distance of it, The Pantry Restaurant on Cerrillos. This place never never lets me down. It is always perfectly delicious. So much so, that one winter, many years ago, I gained 20 pounds solely due to The Pantry and my lack of self control. My kryptonite is the “Buenos Días”. There was a time when we didn’t even need to tell the waiter our order. They sat us without menus and placed our order right away. Here it is: “Buenos Días, crispy potatoes, over medium, green, no tortilla, sub English muffin, crispy, a four slice side of bacon, crispy and a side of red. Thank you, also, water please.” This heaping plate of marvel is started with a generous layer of flavorful sliced potatoes, then slathered with shredded cheese and chile, topped with your egg of choice then salamandered to a melty excellence. We enrich this beauty with the aforementioned crispy bacon crumbled atop and an English muffin to help with the efficient scooping into our mouths. I have strayed from this oft usual order and have been very happy with every item I have chosen, but always have, and likely always will, fall back on the Buenos Días, which they serve all day, making it an easy go-to any time. To make access easier to scrumptious comfort food, The Pantry now has two other locations in Santa Fe, one at the Community College and one downtown. Though, in my experience, the OG Pantry on Cerrillos is still the best. Now, full beyond comfort, looking forward to the upcoming Abiquiu studio tour, all of our Santa Fe errands done, we made the pleasant hour drive back home to our beautiful Abiquiu valley and bed. Finally the weather is perfect, goals have been met, my work is done and the weekend is here!
Great timing because this Saturday is also the annual Bondy yard sale. We love this sale. The prices are fair, the goods are plentiful and very well displayed. You can count on having many categories to shop for. You can also count on this field trip taking about three times longer than you planned for, as, likely, you will run into a lot of people that you know. Catch-up chats and quick hugs with a “gotta get going to buy things I probably don’t need, see you later”! This year was the best year yet. I always follow my same routine by starting front left and working my way clockwise until I reach the Bondys’ front porch that’s usually so crowded with used stuff and people sifting through it, that you have to squeeze in with a lot of “excuse me, I’m sorry”. I pretend to be looking at all the laid out items on tall tables, but really I’m casually strolling to the back where there are always lots of homemade treats that I hope are for the taking. Brian Bondy could always fall back on a second career of candy making with that perfect toffee he makes fresh every year. It’s sweet, but not too sweet with the exact right crunch and chewiness. The nuts compliment it perfectly and one piece is never enough! Yum! But wait, this year I see that there is a whole new section of booths behind the porch with clothes and fun art temptations. Oh dear, this is gonna be hard to resist. Thankfully, I came with my wife and two dear friends and mostly succeeded in focusing my shopping urges on clothes and essential items for them. My wife tends to get grabby at these events and, later, I discovered that she had already made several trips to our car with arms full of very important things by the time we were saying our goodbyes to drive the short distance further down the road to the second location of the sale. I’m glad that we brought our small car this year, because this next leg of the sale had some temptations that were challenging my “less is more” philosophy. I will confess that it is fully my responsibility that we came home with a giant meditation bowl for our, yet to be finished yoga/ meditation space. Ah well, it’s good to treat oneself and to splurge every now and then. We decided to carry on splurging the next day to treat ourselves to a Mother’s Day breakfast at The Artesian Restaurant in Ojo Caliente. We love coming to this restaurant, it’s so peaceful and beautiful. The gardens were literally sparkling and shining, probably due to the 1.11” of rain torrent that we had received the night before. What a gorgeous day! The bustling dining room was not as crowded as we feared it may be considering the holiday and we were sat quickly at one of the many pleasant tables lining the walls. The menu has a nice variety of delicious sounding items to choose from. We were starving, so, started with the avocado toast as an appetizer. I ordered an omelet, choosing my own ingredients. It comes with cubed potatoes and toast. I chose house cured bacon, goat cheese and spinach. Asked for my potatoes crispy, always, and rye for my toast. My wife went for the French toast. The avocado toast was all that it boasted to be except for a pet peeve my wife and I share, that avocado should be avocado. Not guacamole! It’s no different than assuming tomato on your BLT, but getting salsa. Come on people, know the difference! Besides that, the sourdough toast was a perfect vessel for the piled high guacamole, sautéed spinach and over medium egg drizzled with a nice zesty sesame chili oil and surrounded by flavorful cherry tomatoes. My omelet was very sizable and topped with a lot of bacon, spinach and goat cheese. At first, I was worried that that was their style, to have the ingredients on the outside of the omelet, but quickly comforted to find the fold was stuffed with much more bacon and goat cheese and spinach. Dare I say too much??! The potatoes were good but nothing spectacular and the toast was bland and room temp. I do appreciate a restaurant that still serves cute, soft butter balls in a ramekin, a rare sight since COVID and was happy to receive this and small sides of ramekin-ed ketchup, syrup and a delicious homemade strawberry jam that I wish they sold jarred and to go. My wife’s French Toast was some of the best I’ve ever had. Texas toast soaked in a delicate egg batter and fried to a slightly crunchy golden brown, dusted with powdered sugar and surrounded by a generous portion of sliced strawberries, a velvety maple syrup and a mountain of whipped cream. We ate the French toast last thankfully and were not tempted, for a change, to order dessert. All this, a cup of decaf and a lot left over, came to $55. It was a truly lovely weekend. As I sit writing this article on a comfortable chair on my new screened in porch on the river, listening to the beautiful song of the Western Tanagers, I am so very thankful to be lucky enough to live in such a beautiful valley surrounded by kind and generous folk. Now to face all the new tasks on my to-do list, I am rejuvenated and ready to go. I think that we might make this Bondy-ing with Mother’s Day breakfast an annual tradition! ~Jessica Rath After an extraordinary long winter which started with freezing temperatures in the first days of November and lasted all the way through April, spring has finally arrived. And, even faster than in other years, spring is almost gone! Just in time for summer, for swimming and kayaking, Abiquiú Lake has nicely filled up with plenty of water. Something that most of us have sorely missed for the last few seasons. Before I moved to New Mexico in 2000, I lived in Berkeley/California. When I told people of my plans, the common reaction was: What?! You’re moving to the desert?! Well, I had visited friends who lived in Santa Fe, and they had taken me to Taos and other gorgeous places in the north, so I knew that I wasn't going to live in a dry, sand-blown desert. But I certainly didn’t expect that I’d end up close to a splendid lake. It didn’t bother me that it is an artificial lake, with a dam to store the Rio Chama water. It was just perfect for swimming, other people were kayaking, sometimes there was even a sailboat. The speed boats – well, one just had to ignore them. But for the last few years, the water level steadily sank until it was too low for the boat ramps. Swimming became dangerous because of blue-green algae. What was going on? I looked at the history of the lake to find out more. The work on Abiquiu Dam started in 1958. It was created to control the amount of water which would flow from the Rio Chama into the Rio Grande in Espanola. When it was finished, it was considered to be the fourth-largest earth filled dam in the world: 325 (now 340, raised 15 feet in the 80s) feet high, 1,450 (1800 now) feet across from one edge of the canyon to the other, and 2,770 feet from the upstream to the downstream edge. A mile-long conveyor belt had to be installed to bring fill dirt from the borrow areas to near the dam, from where it was transported via dump trucks to wherever it was needed. The dam was completed in 1962, but – surprise! – there wasn’t a lake at all! The dam was used strictly as a flood barrier. Apparently, in the 1970s there were conflicting attitudes about the development of a recreational lake which would flood the area on the north side of the dam. Much of the land was private, and there was concern that the dam wouldn’t be strong enough to hold so much water. On the other hand, the Espanola Chamber of Commerce petitioned for the construction of recreational facilities because of the obvious benefits for local businesses. I don’t know how it happened, but I’m glad they won! With the higher water levels, this summer looks promising as far as swimming and other water activities are concerned. But what about the coming years? Will the water stay high? I wanted to find out and made an appointment with John Mueller, Operations Manager at the Abiquiu Dam (which is part of the U.S.Army Corps of Engineers), who kindly agreed to answer my questions. First of all, I wanted to know why the water was so low for the last two years – was it just the drought or were there other reasons? John explained that it was usage, primarily. The purpose of the reservoir was to control flooding from the dam down to Espanola, where the Chama meets the Rio Grande. Initially, there wasn’t much water stored – not enough for swimming etc., it was just a puddle at the bottom. In the spring there was more water, but it was slowed down for flood control, the water was released at a controlled rate. But, in the mid-70s the San Juan Diversion Project changed things. (He shows me on the map). The headwater of the native Chama River is southeast of Pagosa Springs, it flows along the Colorado border, and then into Rio Grande. The Bureau of Reclamation Tunnel is 26 miles long, it collects water from the headwaters of the San Juan River, flows through a tunnel underneath the Continental Divide, and comes out east. It is placed in Heron Reservoir where it connects with the native Chama River. The water is purchased by contractors, municipalities, and water authorities including the City of Albuquerque. They can store it in Heron Lake, and they can store it in El Vado Lake including native (natural Chama, not San Juan-Chama) water. They use it for irrigation and drinking, mainly. In the 70s the water was stored year round for the contractors. They can ask for it whenever they want or need it. “We can’t STORE native water like El Vado does. We can only hold it, slow it down, and eventually release it. The only water that is stored is the San Juan-Chama water, for these contractors, to be sent down when they request it. In the 80s and 90s and early 2000s they were not calling for it, but then when they did ask for it, our water level kept dropping. This is partly related to the drought, and also, Albuquerque is growing and needs more water. For the last 10 years the water level has been reduced.” There is currently legislation and a process that is being developed for Abiquiu Lake to have the ability to store native water in addition to San Juan Chama imported water up to an elevation of 6230 feet, although it is uncertain when this may be implemented. I asked about the blue-green algae. It’s actually NOT an algae John corrected, but a bacteria. It grows in warm, stagnant water with high nutrients such as nitrates, sulfates, etc. from agricultural run-off. Less water, higher temperatures, more nutrients: the perfect growing conditions for algae. “Last year we had more water because the El Vado Dam is being worked on. To do the maintenance, they had to drain their reservoir and we took that water. Also, the snow melt is a contributing factor for the high levels. We have to hold off releasing the water like we normally would at this time of the year, because there are other tributaries like the Ojo River. We have to reduce our release because at the Chamita Gate down there, at the Chevron Station where the Ojo comes in, there would be too much water otherwise. We’re only releasing about half of what comes in. But we’re going to release that water eventually, for agricultural purposes etc.” And good news for this summer: “On July 1st whatever we’ll have over will be locked into storage until the end of the season, that’s going to help us keep the water up here. Because of El Vado and the snowpack we have a higher storage through November. Potentially also next year, depending on when they complete the maintenance at El Vado. Right now, it’s a foot and ½ going up every day. We’re at the level of 2013 I think. We're probably gonna come up another 6 feet. However, it will not last. This year and next year, we’ll have a lot of water! Definitely this year, and it’s looking pretty good for next year.” I thanked John for his time and the interesting information and went to the overlook and then to the main boat ramp to take some pictures. There were already some picnickers, some kayakers, and one speed boat. It’s still too cold for swimming, but we can look forward to a glorious summer!
Read More Taos News 4/28/1960 Albuquerque Journal 7/22/61 |
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