Designed by Renowned Architect and Woodworker George Nakashima
~Jessica Rath
If one wants to visit Christ in the Desert, the Benedictine monastery near Abiquiú, one has to drive north on US 84 past Ghost Ranch, and turn left on Forest Road 151. It’s a dirt road which becomes quite winding and steep at times, with towering sandstone walls on one side and deep chasms on the other. Signs warning of flash floods and falling boulders aren’t reassuring either. While I was driving along the almost 15 miles for my meeting with Brother Chrysostom, Guestmaster at the monastery, it struck me that hardly anything had changed during the almost 60 years since the monastery was founded. The road was just as rugged, just as undeveloped now as it was around 1964.
This was definitely one of the reasons for choosing the location, as Brother Chrysostom later explained to me. The site of the monastery is surrounded by the Santa Fe National Forest, which would guarantee the silence and solitude required for the monastic life.
The monastery was founded on June 24, 1964, the day of the Feast of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of the Order of St. Benedict to which Christ in the Desert belongs. There was only a ranch house, nothing else was there. Father Aelred Wall had found the site, and became its first Prior. With very limited resources but lots of dedication, Father Aelred and a handful of fellow monks began to build a community which would eventually provide a home for around 18 monks, accommodate overnight guests, maintain a gift shop, AND offer solar-powered electricity!
The first building that went up was the chapel. Father Aelred turned to his personal friend George Nakashima, a Japanese American architect and furniture maker who had won numerous awards, for the design of the chapel. Because he knew that the monks had no money, Nakashima offered his services for free. Another benefactor was Georgia O’Keeffe; the Christ in the Desert Monastery website sports a lovely picture from the mid-1960s of Father Aelred, George Nakashima, and Georgia O’Keeffe
Brother Chrysostom provided me with lots of interesting details about Nakashima’s life. His parents immigrated to the United States, and he was born in Spokane, Washington, in 1905. He earned his Masters in Architecture from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in 1931 (incidentally, Brother Chrysostom is an alumni of MIT as well). After graduating, he spent a year in Paris, then went to Japan, and eventually to India. In Japan he had worked for the American architect Antonin Raymond. When Raymond’s company was commissioned to build Golconde, a dormitory for the Sri Aurobindo Ashram in Pondicherry, Nakashima finished the project after Raymond returned to America.
All this happened years before he came to Christ in the Desert. He was a world-traveler, a seeker, trying to find out what his purpose was. Brother Chrysostom called him an amazing man who wanted to experience everything on a deep level. When he was in Japan, Nakashima had met Marion Okajima, who would become his wife. They returned to the United States in the early 1940s when Nakashima became convinced that as a builder of furniture he could achieve his standards of design and craftsmanship. And then they were interned as Japanese Americans during WW2, George, Marion, and their young daughter Mira. At the relocation camp in Idaho he met a man trained in traditional Japanese carpentry who taught him the use of traditional Japanese hand tools and joinery techniques.
In 1943, the architect Antonin Raymond who had become an honorary consul and had quite a bit of influence, vouched for Nakashima and his family and they were released from the internment camp. They moved to resettle in New Hope, Pennsylvania, where slowly George built his shop and home on several acres of hilly woodland. From there, Nakashima became entrenched in woodworking, and by 1949 he was established as a designer and builder of fine, handcrafted furniture.
Father Aelred had connections to many important and famous people, that’s how he happened to get George Nakashima involved with the design of the chapel. According to Brother Chrysostom, it is arguably one of the tallest adobe structures in the world, because of the steeple! Nakashima designed it, and it was built with the help of volunteers over a number of years. It was first used in 1968, and ever since. Brother Chrysostom thinks that Nakashima probably was involved with the choosing of the site, the location where the church would sit, given the majestic view of the canyon behind it. “Thomas Merton once remarked on one of his two visits here that this church is probably the most monastic church in the U.S. the way it is situated, the architecture, everything”. That is high praise, indeed.
I asked whether he did any furniture for the church? “Yes indeed, he created some of the pews and seats in the original configuration. We no longer have those, we have other pews that were crafted in Mexico and brought up here. But our tables and chairs in the refectory are pure Nakashima. They’re very heavy and durable and probably last 600 years!”
I had to ask Brother Chrysostom about his name: is it Greek?
“Yes, I’m named after my Patron Saint, St. John Chrysostom of Antioch who was one of the early patriarchs in the church, I didn’t get the name because my secular name was John. Generally when we enter the monastic life we get a completely changed name, that’s the whole purpose, your life has changed. Chrysostom was the name that I submitted, St. John Chrysostom was a doctor of the church, and what he was known for was his preaching. His name is actually an adjective, it means Golden Mouth. His name was John, and Chrysostom was an add-on. It’s a high standard to reach!” I think he can be very proud of that name!
I’ll close with a quote by Nakashima about the concept of the buildings:
“Architecture and structure are not just abstract ideas; they must relate to the environment of the building and the materials available; in a sense a structure evolves from the materials used. I am at war with the usual architectural practice of starting with form; this is an egotistical concept for then you are left having to fit structure into form. Here, we are 25 miles from the next town and getting materials is a big task in itself. But we have adobe in the Canyon and we have vegas, so it’s natural to use them. The use of adobe affects the structure and appearance of a building. The walls have to be very thick, between three or four feet; the openings are therefore small and the form of the building is necessarily very different from most modern buildings with their large expanses of glass and curtain walls”. Jubilee, September 1065. Many thanks to Brother Chrysostom who kindly took the time to chat with me, and with gratitude to Mira Nakashima and David B. Long for providing me with a number of useful newspaper clippings!
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What an extreme treat to have such perfect weather for the entire memorial weekend! One of my most favorite parts of getting to live in Abiquiu on the Chama river is being lucky enough to to play in the beautiful but silty water. It’s been such an unusual May. Almost every day I think, “today is the day that I’ll go in for my first dip of the year,” but every day it’s just been too darn chilly or raining with thunder and lightning. Until this last Sunday! We had planned for my wife and I and four friends to kayak from one of their houses, a mile up river, to our shore, weather permitting. Sunday was the perfect day to do just that, so we all suited up, gathered our gear and a few of our more adventurous dogs and piled into the truck. We have done this float many times and are very comfortable with putting in and taking out, but my goodness, things were very different this time! The water was extremely high and moving very fast. We cautiously steered our vessels, nose first, into the rushing current, loaded gear and fur babies and jumped on hoping not to tip over right away. It was fabulous! This trip usually takes around 40 minutes, but this time, it took only 20. By the time we came to our grassy shore, we were all smiles and wanting to do it again. We’d opened up our guest trailer for the weekend, to a family that we had not yet met. When we bobbed up to our bank, they were all enjoying the river. The two young boys were fishing with their dad and mom was soaking up the sun on a camp chair. The boys were shyly in awe of our arrival and mom looked very excited about the possibility of having this adventure herself. They helped us out of the water, asking how our trip went, to which we all responded with exuberant “it was great and we’re going again!” I couldn’t resist the sparkle in their eyes of the obvious desire to join us, so said, “we have another kayak big enough for three of you if you’d like to jump in…” A little more gear gathering and life vests for the boys, and off we went for round two. Again, it was a wonderful time made further enjoyable by getting to see mom and the boys have such a good time. Being on the water always makes me hungry. Fortunately, my wife had thought ahead and remembered to order pizza for lunch, hoping to time it right for the post-kayak hangries. This can be a tricky effort when ordering from our local pizza joint. Mamacita’s Pizza is a valued business in our small community being one of the few options in the valley. I’m pretty sure that this is a one person show and can imagine it’s hard to keep up with the demand on busy weekends. That said, I’m often baffled by some of the experiences that we have had there. We tried to follow the previously instructed rules by calling the day before to confirm that they were open and ask if we should preorder now, call in early the day of, or just order when we were ready to eat. We were told an emphatic “it’s memorial weekend, definitely preorder at noon because I will run out!” So, my wife set an alarm and called on the dot, at noon the next day but was chastised anyway for trying to pre order for later that afternoon on such a busy day, and that if she didn’t order right now, pay and come to get it, she’d be *#$@ outta luck! This is what I’m referring to by “tricky”. So the wife obediently ordered, picked it up and stowed it in our oven on the warm setting to dig into several hours later. The pizza was good. It’s always good. A nice, I’m guessing, sourdough crust, layered with a balanced savory sauce and a melty mozzarella. We ordered two pies, the Veggie Supreme and the other extra pepperoni, green chile and red onion. The green chile was sparse, but perfectly spicy and any more would likely have caused a fire on my tongue. The pepperoni, of which I would consider to be a “regular” amount and red onion balanced and enhanced the spicy chile. The veggie pizza was excellent and had plenty of green peppers, onions, tomatoes, olives and mushrooms embedded in the saucy cheesy pie. As always, we over ordered and we’re very satisfied and happy laying on our grassy lawn with plenty of slices left over for future lunches. The portions from Mamacitas are generous, but not on the cheap side. For two jumbos, the total was about $62. On the menu I see more than pizza, including wings, subs, salads and “garlic stix.” Next time I will try to branch out a bit and let you all know how it goes. I also look forward to future river adventures this summer and to enjoying the likely new friendship we will have with this lovely family that we got to share our weekend with.
~Brian Bondy
Humankind definitely has a penchant for forcing the world around us to change for our “benefit”. Sometimes it’s trying to bend the will of others to believe something different, like religion, science, or justice. It may also be to change the world around us to be more accommodating, building dams, clearing forests, plowing fields. These changes can cause conflict, alleviate hunger, alter nature. It’s quite the mixed bag. Arguably, we wouldn’t be where we are without fossil fuels. It would be easy to see that as a positive and a negative. Sometimes maybe, we just don’t know when it’s time to quit. Nobody likes change, but really, nobody likes change unless it’s easy. I wrote about how humans changed wild animals into domesticated cats and dogs. The same goes true for cattle, pigs, and chickens. This is the food we eat because this is the food that is served to us in grocery stores. When I was a kid, I got served squirrel and didn’t think anything of it. Today that seems odd, but I have a Better Homes & Garden cookbook from the 60’s that shows how to skin and prep a squirrel and a rabbit. I was looking up ‘how humans have modified their food’ How humanity has changed the food it eats - BBC Future and the results were fascinating. It also came up with articles on how humans have changed because of the food they eat. The first thing that caught my eye was how, since humans have cooked their food thus making it easier to chew, this evolved our faces to become smaller and our jaws less powerful. Humans’ civilization begins with farming. Food supplies being localized meant that they did not have to continuously wander in search of something to eat. Groups could form to help with protection, education, food production, etc. And the food could be selectively bred to be more productive, larger, sweeter, whatever the needs. Read some on that HERE. How Humans Have Changed Fruit (businessinsider.com) Forests were cleared, dams were built, pesticides were sprayed, wolves were killed. Unintended consequences happened. Today, genetic modification is done to help enhance plant growth. In some cases, generous scientists have created rice that will survive longer periods under water. They donated this genetic modification to the world, which helped some starving nations to grow rice where their regular crops failed due to the new, unusual weather patterns occurring today. Monsanto, of course, was famous for patenting their seed products, then selling them everywhere. They could then sue farmers that were not buying their product, but the farmer’s crops were contaminated with Monsanto corn from neighboring crops. That was likely a conspiracy theory, a story you can read about HERE. There is genetic engineering going on to help alleviate hunger, produce pest resistant food, and even to produce milk and meat in a lab, not from animals. It’s happening right now. The promise of solving food shortages, and maybe even vegetarian compatible meat, vegan compatible milk, that has some seriously great promise. And, like AI, artificial intelligence, it has some seriously scary possibilities. Cats & Dogs, Cows & Pigs, Wheat and Soy, they are all genetically modified, some by selective breeding, some in a lab. Where do you draw the line? This year's El Rito studio tour was different from the last few. I’m not sure, but it felt like there were a lot less mapped out stops and a lot more conglomerative efforts. Which was disappointing to me because, if I am being completely honest, I mostly go to these events to sate my intense passion for real estate. I love it all. Architecture, landscape design, people’s personal and ever eclectic choices in furnishing and art…wait, art, that’s what it’s all about! Back to topic here. So…. There was a lot of amazing art. I particularly was drawn to the fiber arts this year. So many soft, woven lengths of home spun or uniquely brought together fibers. I’m amazed by the vision and the patience one must have to create these wonders.
I was happy to finally see behind the sleepy curtain of Northern New Mexico College. They were slated to have 30 plus artists, live music and food available to tour goers. We arrived at noon and it was hopping with action and people and cars and music. We were hungry and glad that there was food at this stop. But, there wasn’t any food left. They had run out, at noon, on day one. Oops. Hangrily, my wife and I made the rounds to ogle every single table laden with every expression of art out there. We left feeling satisfied, art wise, hungry and determined to finish the tour anyway. We didn’t quite make it to each and every stop but I am very glad to have stopped at number 9, David McClister’s house, which used to be a gas station and was very intriguing, as was David and his work. If you don’t already know, he’s a photographer whose interest seems to be famous musicians. He’s had sessions with Taylor Swift, Dolly Parton, Emmy Lou, Willie Nelson and countless others. Assuming that he gets to choose his subjects, it’s clear that we have similar musical taste. We ended our tour with the El Rito library, hoping for food. There were several, long tables filled with sweets and a couple of tables boasting hot dogs, but no actual hot dogs. I did grab a bowl of red chile con carne and was very thankful for the generous library folk for providing all the free sweet fare, of which my wife and I grabbed some to go. Still ravenous, and with much more of the day ahead of us than we had planned for, we decided that we’d make the long trip to Santa Fe because we all sometimes need to. This is our thirteenth article on the local run around in Abiquiu and this one is taking us to Santa Fe. If we are all honest, we all need to go there time and again. Thus, El Rito, Cheato. Having lived in and around Santa Fe for thirty plus years, I know the food scene there well. Out of all the choices in front of us, we chose, as we often did when we lived within walking distance of it, The Pantry Restaurant on Cerrillos. This place never never lets me down. It is always perfectly delicious. So much so, that one winter, many years ago, I gained 20 pounds solely due to The Pantry and my lack of self control. My kryptonite is the “Buenos Días”. There was a time when we didn’t even need to tell the waiter our order. They sat us without menus and placed our order right away. Here it is: “Buenos Días, crispy potatoes, over medium, green, no tortilla, sub English muffin, crispy, a four slice side of bacon, crispy and a side of red. Thank you, also, water please.” This heaping plate of marvel is started with a generous layer of flavorful sliced potatoes, then slathered with shredded cheese and chile, topped with your egg of choice then salamandered to a melty excellence. We enrich this beauty with the aforementioned crispy bacon crumbled atop and an English muffin to help with the efficient scooping into our mouths. I have strayed from this oft usual order and have been very happy with every item I have chosen, but always have, and likely always will, fall back on the Buenos Días, which they serve all day, making it an easy go-to any time. To make access easier to scrumptious comfort food, The Pantry now has two other locations in Santa Fe, one at the Community College and one downtown. Though, in my experience, the OG Pantry on Cerrillos is still the best. Now, full beyond comfort, looking forward to the upcoming Abiquiu studio tour, all of our Santa Fe errands done, we made the pleasant hour drive back home to our beautiful Abiquiu valley and bed. Finally the weather is perfect, goals have been met, my work is done and the weekend is here!
Great timing because this Saturday is also the annual Bondy yard sale. We love this sale. The prices are fair, the goods are plentiful and very well displayed. You can count on having many categories to shop for. You can also count on this field trip taking about three times longer than you planned for, as, likely, you will run into a lot of people that you know. Catch-up chats and quick hugs with a “gotta get going to buy things I probably don’t need, see you later”! This year was the best year yet. I always follow my same routine by starting front left and working my way clockwise until I reach the Bondys’ front porch that’s usually so crowded with used stuff and people sifting through it, that you have to squeeze in with a lot of “excuse me, I’m sorry”. I pretend to be looking at all the laid out items on tall tables, but really I’m casually strolling to the back where there are always lots of homemade treats that I hope are for the taking. Brian Bondy could always fall back on a second career of candy making with that perfect toffee he makes fresh every year. It’s sweet, but not too sweet with the exact right crunch and chewiness. The nuts compliment it perfectly and one piece is never enough! Yum! But wait, this year I see that there is a whole new section of booths behind the porch with clothes and fun art temptations. Oh dear, this is gonna be hard to resist. Thankfully, I came with my wife and two dear friends and mostly succeeded in focusing my shopping urges on clothes and essential items for them. My wife tends to get grabby at these events and, later, I discovered that she had already made several trips to our car with arms full of very important things by the time we were saying our goodbyes to drive the short distance further down the road to the second location of the sale. I’m glad that we brought our small car this year, because this next leg of the sale had some temptations that were challenging my “less is more” philosophy. I will confess that it is fully my responsibility that we came home with a giant meditation bowl for our, yet to be finished yoga/ meditation space. Ah well, it’s good to treat oneself and to splurge every now and then. We decided to carry on splurging the next day to treat ourselves to a Mother’s Day breakfast at The Artesian Restaurant in Ojo Caliente. We love coming to this restaurant, it’s so peaceful and beautiful. The gardens were literally sparkling and shining, probably due to the 1.11” of rain torrent that we had received the night before. What a gorgeous day! The bustling dining room was not as crowded as we feared it may be considering the holiday and we were sat quickly at one of the many pleasant tables lining the walls. The menu has a nice variety of delicious sounding items to choose from. We were starving, so, started with the avocado toast as an appetizer. I ordered an omelet, choosing my own ingredients. It comes with cubed potatoes and toast. I chose house cured bacon, goat cheese and spinach. Asked for my potatoes crispy, always, and rye for my toast. My wife went for the French toast. The avocado toast was all that it boasted to be except for a pet peeve my wife and I share, that avocado should be avocado. Not guacamole! It’s no different than assuming tomato on your BLT, but getting salsa. Come on people, know the difference! Besides that, the sourdough toast was a perfect vessel for the piled high guacamole, sautéed spinach and over medium egg drizzled with a nice zesty sesame chili oil and surrounded by flavorful cherry tomatoes. My omelet was very sizable and topped with a lot of bacon, spinach and goat cheese. At first, I was worried that that was their style, to have the ingredients on the outside of the omelet, but quickly comforted to find the fold was stuffed with much more bacon and goat cheese and spinach. Dare I say too much??! The potatoes were good but nothing spectacular and the toast was bland and room temp. I do appreciate a restaurant that still serves cute, soft butter balls in a ramekin, a rare sight since COVID and was happy to receive this and small sides of ramekin-ed ketchup, syrup and a delicious homemade strawberry jam that I wish they sold jarred and to go. My wife’s French Toast was some of the best I’ve ever had. Texas toast soaked in a delicate egg batter and fried to a slightly crunchy golden brown, dusted with powdered sugar and surrounded by a generous portion of sliced strawberries, a velvety maple syrup and a mountain of whipped cream. We ate the French toast last thankfully and were not tempted, for a change, to order dessert. All this, a cup of decaf and a lot left over, came to $55. It was a truly lovely weekend. As I sit writing this article on a comfortable chair on my new screened in porch on the river, listening to the beautiful song of the Western Tanagers, I am so very thankful to be lucky enough to live in such a beautiful valley surrounded by kind and generous folk. Now to face all the new tasks on my to-do list, I am rejuvenated and ready to go. I think that we might make this Bondy-ing with Mother’s Day breakfast an annual tradition! ~Jessica Rath After an extraordinary long winter which started with freezing temperatures in the first days of November and lasted all the way through April, spring has finally arrived. And, even faster than in other years, spring is almost gone! Just in time for summer, for swimming and kayaking, Abiquiú Lake has nicely filled up with plenty of water. Something that most of us have sorely missed for the last few seasons. Before I moved to New Mexico in 2000, I lived in Berkeley/California. When I told people of my plans, the common reaction was: What?! You’re moving to the desert?! Well, I had visited friends who lived in Santa Fe, and they had taken me to Taos and other gorgeous places in the north, so I knew that I wasn't going to live in a dry, sand-blown desert. But I certainly didn’t expect that I’d end up close to a splendid lake. It didn’t bother me that it is an artificial lake, with a dam to store the Rio Chama water. It was just perfect for swimming, other people were kayaking, sometimes there was even a sailboat. The speed boats – well, one just had to ignore them. But for the last few years, the water level steadily sank until it was too low for the boat ramps. Swimming became dangerous because of blue-green algae. What was going on? I looked at the history of the lake to find out more. The work on Abiquiu Dam started in 1958. It was created to control the amount of water which would flow from the Rio Chama into the Rio Grande in Espanola. When it was finished, it was considered to be the fourth-largest earth filled dam in the world: 325 (now 340, raised 15 feet in the 80s) feet high, 1,450 (1800 now) feet across from one edge of the canyon to the other, and 2,770 feet from the upstream to the downstream edge. A mile-long conveyor belt had to be installed to bring fill dirt from the borrow areas to near the dam, from where it was transported via dump trucks to wherever it was needed. The dam was completed in 1962, but – surprise! – there wasn’t a lake at all! The dam was used strictly as a flood barrier. Apparently, in the 1970s there were conflicting attitudes about the development of a recreational lake which would flood the area on the north side of the dam. Much of the land was private, and there was concern that the dam wouldn’t be strong enough to hold so much water. On the other hand, the Espanola Chamber of Commerce petitioned for the construction of recreational facilities because of the obvious benefits for local businesses. I don’t know how it happened, but I’m glad they won! With the higher water levels, this summer looks promising as far as swimming and other water activities are concerned. But what about the coming years? Will the water stay high? I wanted to find out and made an appointment with John Mueller, Operations Manager at the Abiquiu Dam (which is part of the U.S.Army Corps of Engineers), who kindly agreed to answer my questions. First of all, I wanted to know why the water was so low for the last two years – was it just the drought or were there other reasons? John explained that it was usage, primarily. The purpose of the reservoir was to control flooding from the dam down to Espanola, where the Chama meets the Rio Grande. Initially, there wasn’t much water stored – not enough for swimming etc., it was just a puddle at the bottom. In the spring there was more water, but it was slowed down for flood control, the water was released at a controlled rate. But, in the mid-70s the San Juan Diversion Project changed things. (He shows me on the map). The headwater of the native Chama River is southeast of Pagosa Springs, it flows along the Colorado border, and then into Rio Grande. The Bureau of Reclamation Tunnel is 26 miles long, it collects water from the headwaters of the San Juan River, flows through a tunnel underneath the Continental Divide, and comes out east. It is placed in Heron Reservoir where it connects with the native Chama River. The water is purchased by contractors, municipalities, and water authorities including the City of Albuquerque. They can store it in Heron Lake, and they can store it in El Vado Lake including native (natural Chama, not San Juan-Chama) water. They use it for irrigation and drinking, mainly. In the 70s the water was stored year round for the contractors. They can ask for it whenever they want or need it. “We can’t STORE native water like El Vado does. We can only hold it, slow it down, and eventually release it. The only water that is stored is the San Juan-Chama water, for these contractors, to be sent down when they request it. In the 80s and 90s and early 2000s they were not calling for it, but then when they did ask for it, our water level kept dropping. This is partly related to the drought, and also, Albuquerque is growing and needs more water. For the last 10 years the water level has been reduced.” There is currently legislation and a process that is being developed for Abiquiu Lake to have the ability to store native water in addition to San Juan Chama imported water up to an elevation of 6230 feet, although it is uncertain when this may be implemented. I asked about the blue-green algae. It’s actually NOT an algae John corrected, but a bacteria. It grows in warm, stagnant water with high nutrients such as nitrates, sulfates, etc. from agricultural run-off. Less water, higher temperatures, more nutrients: the perfect growing conditions for algae. “Last year we had more water because the El Vado Dam is being worked on. To do the maintenance, they had to drain their reservoir and we took that water. Also, the snow melt is a contributing factor for the high levels. We have to hold off releasing the water like we normally would at this time of the year, because there are other tributaries like the Ojo River. We have to reduce our release because at the Chamita Gate down there, at the Chevron Station where the Ojo comes in, there would be too much water otherwise. We’re only releasing about half of what comes in. But we’re going to release that water eventually, for agricultural purposes etc.” And good news for this summer: “On July 1st whatever we’ll have over will be locked into storage until the end of the season, that’s going to help us keep the water up here. Because of El Vado and the snowpack we have a higher storage through November. Potentially also next year, depending on when they complete the maintenance at El Vado. Right now, it’s a foot and ½ going up every day. We’re at the level of 2013 I think. We're probably gonna come up another 6 feet. However, it will not last. This year and next year, we’ll have a lot of water! Definitely this year, and it’s looking pretty good for next year.” I thanked John for his time and the interesting information and went to the overlook and then to the main boat ramp to take some pictures. There were already some picnickers, some kayakers, and one speed boat. It’s still too cold for swimming, but we can look forward to a glorious summer!
Read More Taos News 4/28/1960 Albuquerque Journal 7/22/61 |
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